Divided lights in thick terror door

[Dave Rosner]

Hi - I'm building a 7x7 sliding barn door for my workshop and it will have a 2 1/4inch poplar frame with t&g siding for the panels and a series of divided lights across the top. I haven't built Windows before and do t have any special router bits (yet) for the mutins.

i guess I could mortise and tennon square pieces for the mutins, rabbit one side for the glass, then apply narrow strips of molding on both sides. Or do I use glazing on the outside just like my old windows on my house and then put some kind of decorative profile on the inside of the mutin with a router bit? Also - what if I get double pane insulated pieces for each light - does that change the approach?

im sure there are many ways to do this so just try g to figure out what is best given e thickness of e door and my skill level.

thanks

[Thomas Bank]

Traditionally, there is a solid piece on the inside and then the glass is set into the frame with glazing putty (see image). This seals the glazing from the elements.

For interior glazing - say in furniture or a connecting door between rooms - the glazing putty is often replaced with retainer clips on the backside or continuous molding for appearances. However, this does not seal the edges of the glass and any water - from weather or condensation - would quickly get into the joint and rot things out.

[Mel Fulks]

I would not use double pane glass, not much area there, concentrate on a good perimeter door seal. I like a separate sash that is thinner than the door ; can be set in center or flush to one side to emphasize the thickness of the door. Sometimes a sill is used along with deep moulding to secure and further accent the sash and improve the beefy look.

[Thomas Bank]

I agree on the double pane issue. You’ll likely have a lot more air leakage around a sliding door than you’d save in insulated glass.

[Dave Rosner]

Thanks for the advice. I like the idea of the Windows being flush with the outside but a bit recessed on the inside. That way I can have 1.5 inch mutins which is more common.

On the weather sealing around the door, any suggestions? I was going to do weather stripping and the get some kind of latch that will pull the door tight to the barn outside structure. Any other thoughts?

[Wayne Lomman]

How are you fitting the tongue and groove panels? If the door frame is grooved to take them, treat the glazed panels the same way. Assemble without glass, then router out the glass areas on the inside to form a rebate ie take out one side of the groove. Caulk the glass in place and retain it with a decorative bead. Cheers

[Dave Rosner]

Thanks Wayne - I'm going to follow that...