A forklift with extended forks would make that a non-issue. Lift it up, put the bag around it, set it back down.Originally Posted by Lee DeRaud
Contributor
A forklift with extended forks would make that a non-issue. Lift it up, put the bag around it, set it back down.
[OP]
Member
Lots of food for thought here. Thank you so much. Will mull this over . . .
[OP]
Member
Yip - my original plan was to hang it with gaps and make it part of the composition as I couldn't figure a way to make it one whole panel. But I can't give up the idea of one massive panel - it would look incredible !! I've seen one as well, made in Mysore, India. I have been desperately trying to locate the guys that made it and see if I can get any tips . . .
Contributor
No well-equipped woodshop or artist's studio should be without one.
Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
"Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.
[OP]
Member
yes, cos of related forklift issues - I'm going to have to press the panel in pieces. Maybe I'll get it all pressed on to 1/4" board in sections and then glue on to the substrate with contact adhesive. If I did it that way, I still don't know how to manage the balance veneer tho . . . any clues ?
Member
No, I just thought it was fairly simple. Not that it matters, but most folks would just build it on half of a large sheet and fold the sheet in half. Fold and clamp the edges to create a vacuum bag.
Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 07-15-2016 at 7:00 PM.
Member
Veneering panels on both sides of ply or solid is for two main reasons: because of warping due to the shrinkage of the glue during cure, which is why backs need cheap "backer veneer" to balance the panel, and second, the backer seals the back to reduce taking on of moisture that causes warping.
So I have eliminated that in several veneerings that I have done by not using a glue the shrinks. My favorite veneer glue besides epoxy, is PL premium polyurethane constructon adhesive. Way cheaper then Gorilla glue (which I also like), and foams less. Both expand as they cure, are waterproof, and wont shrink lik PVA. I would suggest gorilla glue, due to its lower viscosity, easier to roll, but it will expand through the pores of the veneer and be white when finishing, although I dont know that for sure, just surmising. It may actually be great, so try some on mahogony where it WILL expand through the pores, sand and maybe the clear coat will wet out the glue filled pores. However, I have veneered with PL, and it looks like it wont roll out flat when you squirt it out of a caulk gun, but it will. Use a solid rubber brayer type roller, and it is surprisingly easy to roll out a uniform thickness. When you roll it out and it looks like you dont have on thick enough, it IS thick enough. It will give you lots of open time to position the pcs, then cover with plastic film, caul and press it.
The "balancing" stage will come when you glue these veneered panels to the thicker back panel, which, of coarse, I would use PL to do that. No need to clamp it either, just weights.
john.blazy_dichrolam_llc
Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.
Reply With Quote
