Saw for Cutting Segments

[Doug Hepler]

Hello All

The subject line has my question: what would be a good choice for a saw to cut flat and compound segments for turning blanks? Space is at a premium. I am leaning toward a 10" non-slider CMS or perhaps a jobsite TS.

Background: I have some years of experience with segmented turning: flat, compound and staves. I used a 10" hybrid table saw with purpose-made sleds. I downsized last year and no longer have my table saw, although I have access to it if I am willing to drive 30 minutes each way and work in my son's poorly lit shop. There's a lot of trial and error (art?) in the way I turn and I'd like to have a saw handy. I have not cut segments any other way, so I am out of my depth now.

My shop is small (1-car garage) and I don't really have space for another tool. However, Tibbetts uses a CMS to cut segments and I think a miter saw might be a good complement to my band saw. I have a good band saw and have considered using that (too much sanding?). I have considered a miter box (much too laborious), miniature table saw (Byrnes) but the capacity may be too limited and the tilt table looks like a PITA. I have considered a Bosch or Dewalt 10" jobsite TS but I wonder about accuracy.

If you have experience or even speculations about cutting segments without a TS or using the Byrnes I'd appreciate it if you would share them.

Doug Hepler

[Jamie Straw]

[Snip] If you have experience or even speculations about cutting segments without a TS or using the Byrnes I'd appreciate it if you would share them.

Doug Hepler

I can't imagine having to downsize that much, and I've never done segmented turning, but I have a reasonable amount of experience on the 3 tools you've mention (bandsaw, miter saw, table saw - both contractor and cabinet. Since I've dropped flat-work for turning, I use my miter saw much, much more than the Unisaw. I've done one project using the bandsaw that required sawing little tiny quarter-round at precise angles. It was doable with a shop-made sled, but it wasn't fun. Had to buy super-good, narrow saw blades, but didn't have to sandd much. As far as miter saws go, if memory serves, there are some sliders that take up less room than the early models due to a sort-of folding mechanism for the sliding part (all vague in my memory). While I love my Makita slider, seems like a non-sliding saw would be less fatiguing for repetitive work and doesn't sound like you'd need the extra capacity.

Whatever tool you use, I'm sure you know the second most important factor is the blade (the first being the accuracy of the tool).
PS: the Swiss "Inca" tilting-table saws are quite precise and highly coveted by model makers. They are very small! and hard to find (and pricey). Here's one that I refurbished from a very neglected state and sold a few years ago. What's the capacity of the Byrnes -- how much do you need?

IncaWhole.jpg

[Doug Hepler]

Jamie

Re the downsizing, what I kept and what I gave up was according to my best guess at the time. I have learned to wield a carpenter's saw pretty well for making furniture, and then to clean up the cuts with hand tools. That and a good band saw have sufficed, but I'd rather not try to cut segments that way.

Re the capacity of the Byrne saw -- the mfr says 13/16, as I recall. A review says 7/8". This saw is highly regarded by model makers. If I made model ships or airplanes, etc I probably would not hesitate. But sometimes I want to cut segments thicker than 7/8" and often need to cut compound staves.

Yes, I think the newer Bosch CMS may work well fr me if I can find room for it.

Doug

[Wade Holloway]

Not sure how much sawing you are going to do. But if you are not going to be making segmented turnings everyday all day you can get a old fashioned hand miter saw (not the big box store type) that with a sharp saw can make the job pretty easy and not take up hardly any storage space. Nobex Mitre Saw make a pretty good one and the best model they make is still less than 200 bucks.

[Justin Stephen]

All I can do is relate my own experience for what it is worth. I started out creating segments on a mitre saw a la Malcolm Tibbetts. I didn't own a Festool but I do own a pretty solid Milwaukee with a Forrest Chopmaster on it. I had a couple of different wags at making a cutting tray for it, including careful clamping and confirming angles with a digital angle gauge. With all that, I had a very difficult time achieving accurate angles. My guess is that neither of my cutting trays was accurate enough. I used these failures to rationalize buying a better table saw than the crappy little one I owned at the time and made my own sleds for it and immediately achieved far better results. I also switch out my 10" table saw blade for a Freud 6" circular saw blade for segment cutting to save on kerf loss. I now use an Incra sled since I bought it before the Segeasy sleds were readily available but the Incra has been handy for several other tasks so I don't regret spending money on it.

[Doug Hepler]

Wade and Justin

Thanks for your replies. Wade, I have a Nobex -- the less expensive one -- and I have cut many a miter, tenon shoulder, etc. with it in the last 14 months or so since I gave up my TS. A 12-segment bowl of 3/4" stock, say 8" deep comes out to about 120 segments. That deserves my original word, "laborious" and I think that coincides with Justin's experience.

Just to finish this thread (for my part, anyway) I have been thinking about this long enough (many months). I'm eager to get back to turning. I'll give a CMS a shot and see how that goes. I'll buy the Craftsman compact 10" CMS SM2509RC. It's on sale and well reviewed. When (if) I researched them carefully I have had great success with Craftsman tools in the past, despite what some folks think about the badge.

All the best

Doug