How much should I spend on this used Router Bit Set, Forstner Bit Set, DT Jig?

[Minh Tran]

I met a couple who's trying to get rid of their shop equipment because they're heading into their retirement. They're very generous, understanding and reasonable.

They have a couple of things for sale that I currently need/want, in order of necessity:

1. Dewalt DW746 TS ($450-650, negotiable +/- $100)
2. Ceiling-Mount Dust Collector ($100-200, estimate - Model & price to be updated)
3. Porter Cable Dovetail Cutting Jig (to be updated)
4. 2 Router Bit Set ($100/set - Attached photo of one set; the other set has the bits listed as a hyperlink below)
5. Forstner Bit Set( To be updated)
6. Rockler Wooden Handscrew Clamp ($25/pc, 3 total, almost-new condition)


Not THESE particular bits but these bit types:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-Ro...A&gclsrc=aw.ds

I'm negotiating prices for these items. How much would you spend?

[Mike Henderson]

If the ceiling mount dust collector just sucks in air, passes it through a filter and then exhaust it to the shop, I'd pass. What you need is something that collects the dust at the tool.

The Porter Cable dovetail jig is likely to be a fixed spacing jig. Those have a lot of limitations. I'd pass and either get a variable spacing jig or learn to hand cut dovetails (but it depends on what you're going to build).

The problem with router bit sets is whether you use the router bits. An approach is to only buy what you need, when you need it. Over time, you'll have a set of router bits that you actually use.

The Forstner bits appear to be an average quality set - I'm not familiar with that brand.

Some people like the wooden handscrew clamps and others do not. I have a bunch of them but don't use them very much. Shop around, such as on eBay, and see what they're selling for. They're all about the same so a brand name doesn't make a big difference.

Mike

[Minh Tran]

If the ceiling mount dust collector just sucks in air, passes it through a filter and then exhaust it to the shop, I'd pass. What you need is something that collects the dust at the tool.

The Porter Cable dovetail jig is likely to be a fixed spacing jig. Those have a lot of limitations. I'd pass and either get a variable spacing jig or learn to hand cut dovetails (but it depends on what you're going to build).

The problem with router bit sets is whether you use the router bits. An approach is to only buy what you need, when you need it. Over time, you'll have a set of router bits that you actually use.

The Forstner bits appear to be an average quality set - I'm not familiar with that brand.

Some people like the wooden handscrew clamps and others do not. I have a bunch of them but don't use them very much. Shop around, such as on eBay, and see what they're selling for. They're all about the same so a brand name doesn't make a big difference.

Mike

Thank you for the advice.

1. I have a shop-vac and plans to build a cyclone for my TS. The only other "heavy" power tools I have is a plunge router and a drill press. Just got them not too long ago so I have to build a router table & drill press benchtop. The seller wants to sell the dust collector for $175. Perhaps you are right and I should look into one of those vacs to which all power-tool chip/dust ejectors connect. I'm going after you if I have breathing problems down the line

2. It is fixed spacing. I don't like the look of dovetails but considered it as a way to get consistent dovetails to make quick & secure joints (I don't like screws and that pocket hole stuff) for drawers/small boxes. The seller wants to sell for $150 or something and that's just WAY out of my budget for a jig (which does come with a kit ... but that sounds like more junk to me). Looks like no go on this one.

3. Great advice. I'll probably ask for roundover, cove, trim, dovetail bit. Am I missing anything? I'm going to make shelving/cabinets/bookcases that aren't super stylized (I don't like those pattern bits).

4. Ok.
5. I'll probably take a pass on this one too. Don't really like them when I worked with them. I guess I can always *make* them with some offcuts.



Added:
He also has a drill press mortising bit ... how much should I offer for that (I've done 1 mortise in my entire life and it sucked; lots of room for improvement)? As-need basis?

[John Donhowe]

1. An air cleaner is nice for picking up dust that is missed by a dust collector, but not essential. Better and cheaper is to get a decent respirator mask (not disposable). 3M makes good ones that are comfortable. A shop vac is marginal for table saw dust collection- you eventually might consider a full blown dust collector.

2. The Porter-Cable is probably the best of the fixed spacing dovetail jigs, but agree that variable spacing (e.g. Leigh) is much better. If you're looking at it just for adding strength to joints, an easier and far less expensive way is to make box (or finger) joints. With glues available today, there is essentially no difference in joint strength between dovetail and box joints, and the only advantage of DT's is the appearance. There are a lot of descriptions on the web of box joint jigs, using either a table saw, or router.

3. Agree on passing on those router bits. For your planned builds, probably 90% of your routing will be with a straight bit.

4. I'd pass on the drill press mortising bit. I tried one several years ago, and never was able to get decent results- you really need a dedicated mortising machine, but unless you're making a lot of mortises, your better off using a router to make mortises.

Just my $ .02 Good luck!

[Davis Young]

I'll limit my comments to the Dewalt DW746 table saw. I check around on eBay and craigslist from time to time and prices vary from $450-$900. But there were many options available, including mobile base, outfield table, sliding table with precision miter gauge, dado throat plate, and 52" rip capacity extension with table and legs. There was one near me recently with all that plus the manual, blade guard, and all the wrenches including the hex keys for $550, and I would have jumped on that except I am in between shops and won't have a home for it until later this year. Blade guard and paperwork and wrenches might not be important to a lot of people but for me, it is an indicator that the owner likely took care and did not abuse the machine. I could conceivably go as high as $750 for a machine like that. Any higher than that I might be looking at a true 3hp cabinet saw. On the other hand, for a stripped down version with 30" standard rip capacity, your low range of $350 would be a good starting point.

[John Lanciani]

One concern with the saw is that it is an orphan. Parts will become more difficult to obtain as time goes by so it could conceivably be irreparable in the not too distant future (if not already). The rest is primarily low end consumer grade stuff with little or no residual value. If it were me and I absolutely needed everything listed I'd be at about $500 all in as my best and final offer.

[Jon Endres]

I wouldn't buy the router bits unless you have a need for most of them. I bought a set years ago when I started building my own tool collection, and most of it has sat unused in the box. Buy only the bits you need. That said, I'd give $3-$5 per bit for the ones you want.

Similarly, I bought a set of TiN forstner bits when I was up in Canada a few years back (Canadian Tire house brand) and about half of them have never been out of the box. However, unlike the router bits, every once in a rare while I have a need for an odd-size hole (like 1-5/8" for example). It's nice to have the set for that reason alone, but my frequent-use bits are Freud and purchased one-at-a-time. That set in used condition is probably worth $25-$40.

[John Lankers]

The only tool in the whole package worth buying is the saw. I had one for 15 years, it was 100% aligned straight out of the box, the rip fence was excellent for this style saw. The only part I ever had to buy was a replacement arbor after I buggered the threads up with dado shims. If hindsight was 20/20 I should have kept the saw.
If you decide to buy it make sure you get a spare arbor which comes with bearing and put it away just in case.
Btw.: The DW746 was built in the US and not in Timbuktu.