Today is New Bandsaw Day -Psyched, but a Gripe

[Keith Hankins]

My Griz 17" HD for a long time was my only saw. Problem it was a major PIA to change over and get it aligned switching from resaw blade to narrow blade for curve work. Finally I found a 1934 Delta 14" for 200 bucks and I put a carter stablizer (no side support) and its been wonderful. I use the big boy for resaw, and the 14 for curve work and life is good!

[Jim Laumann]

I did the same thing as Keith - have a 17" Grizz w/ a 1/2" blade - found it to be a pain to swap blades - found a 12" Jet on CL - put a 1/8" scroll blade on the Jet for making toys.

[Joe Beaulieu]

Thank you all for the help - very much appreciated!

I am a weekend warrior woodworker (alliteration if ever there was) and use my bandsaw for a lot of different things. I do have an old Jet 14" that is in great shape, I just got sick of the feel of that machine. I really don't have the room to keep both machines. So I will be moving between cutting curves and also some resawing. I have to believe this is a pretty common approach.

What size blade are you all using for scroll work? I would usually use a 3/16" or 1/8" blade. Are you guys not using something that small - kind of seems like many people use a 1/4" blade, and don't go smaller than that. Is that the case?

Thanks again folks - really appreciate the help.

Joe

[Derek Stockley]

I came across the Cool Blocks on their accessories page and it had a small note that these were required on my saw to use blades 1/4" or smaller.

I have one of these saws and like you, I don't want to pay for the extra block. The manual says you can use the ceramic guides with blades from 1/4" to 1 1/4" (page 29). I do have a 1/4" blade, but since getting the saw, I've been mostly doing built-ins and casework for myself that don't involve tight curves, so I haven't actually installed it yet. When the occasion comes, I do plan to take a crack at making a holder rather than buying one - even if I have to make it out of aluminum like the originals, I'm pretty sure I can do it far cheaper than $200 (and that's not even counting the roughly 30% penalty I pay on all retail goods for being Canadian).

[glenn bradley]

It looks like where you are caught is between changing out the guides for scrolling or trying the current guides and thrust. Looking at the guides there is certainly opportunity to swap out a couple of pieces of hardwood for scrolling. I am looking at a picture of the guides not installed on the machine so access could be dissuading factor.

I see that their cool block solution is a set of four holders with typical round cool block stock being held in them. The hefty price tag is for the holders, not the rods I imagine. Using your current guides as a template I would think a set of hardwood blocks could be made in short order. Swaping them in and out may be another story.

I would hold off on selling your smaller saw for a month or two. I sold mine right away and then bought a used (not as nice) saw to replace it a few months later. The extra sacrifice in floor space was made up for by the ability of me to get things done more quickly in my limited shop time. Maybe sell the 14" and pick up a small 10" Craftsman/Rikon. Not near the saw but, small enough to lug in and out of the way. A usable scroll saw takes up a surprising amount of room so if you don't have any fretwork requirements a small bandsaw would be my choice.

Just one more fool's opinion ;-)

[Curt Harms]

The Carter Stabilizer does work for blades narrower than 1/4". At least on the Rikon 10-325 installing it involves partial disassembly of the upper blade guide plus re-aligning the 'regular' blade guide so there's time/tinkering involved. A cool blocks setup is easier/quicker if available for your saw.