You answered the texturing question an presented a bigger mystery. How did you do the last one (feet and antlers). The magic wands must have come in handy!
Member
You answered the texturing question an presented a bigger mystery. How did you do the last one (feet and antlers). The magic wands must have come in handy!
Member
A specific suggestion as to the Varigrind jig (which really should be called a fixture, I'm told): Suggestion is to get the original Varigrind, not the Varigrind 2. I and several other people I've known were disappointed with the VG2. I replaced it with the original and sold the 2 on eBay, awkward thing that it was. Very happy with the regular one. Also, I'll recommend a book that is very comprehensive and well-illustrated, Doc Green's Fixtures and Chucks for Woodturning: Everything You Need to Know to Secure Wood on Your Lathe.
Moderator
I save the magic wands for fighting evil wizards and for the magic of making money. Those and the handles in the other pictures are the only things I've ever made to sell - when one of the Harry Potter books was released I set up a mini lathe in front of the book store and sold $1740 worth in three hours! Yikes. It's a great gig but the work is not too steady...Originally Posted by Dane Riley
wandmaking_comp1.jpg wands_bowl_P7203947cs.jpg
Oops, back to the question.
All mysteries revealed: Good friend and prolific turner John Lucas gave a demo at our club on turning bowls with feet and handles. I wanted to try something kind of organic so I made the one from bradford pear. To make these you turn the basic outside shape but leave rings (or wings) that get carved into the feet and handles.
carved_bowl_process_IMG_201.jpg carved_bowl_IMG_4195.jpg
After roughing out the shape I carved and smoothed with a Foredom rotary carver, carving gouges, scalpels, rifflers, files, and sandpaper glued to small spatulas. (I took a break after the turning and before carving and made a little saw to help rough out the shape - that was good fun itself!
saw.jpg
When turning it is challenging to get the continuity of the shape right on both sides of the bottom ring. I somehow guessed this one right but if I do another one I think I'll make a template. Since I'm pretty lazy I hit on the idea of leaving a textured band where I carved the "handle" tendrils. This was a lot easier since I didn't have to make a perfect surface between the handles. (Any irregularity would be glaring.) When finished, I think the texture looked better than a smooth side would.
The whole thing was fun to do but it was a bit tedious. The design evolved as I saw what was emerging. The carving tool MUCH longer than the turning! And this design is pretty delicate - I took it to the TAW symposium and elsewhere and I'm surprised it's not broken yet!
JKJ
Last edited by John K Jordan; 06-19-2016 at 12:38 PM.
Moderator
I agree with both suggestions.
I have both versions of the Varigrind and after one use haven't touched the new one again. It was easy to set up and sharpened fine but I didn't like one thing - by design it forces all grinding to be done at a fixed spot at the center of the wheel. I prefer to spread my sharpening to even out wear on the stone. Even with the CBN wheels I would prefer to spread the wear across the grinding surface. I don't know what others didn't like but that was enough for me. Anyone want one?
In addition to Doc Green's excellent book, check out the many valuable articles on his web site:
http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/articles.html
And Doc is a real nice and helpful person too, always seems to be willing to take the time to answer questions.
As for calling something a jig or a fixture, I am sometimes confused.
From the Jig and Fixture Handbook: Introduction to Workholding:
https://www.carrlane.com/catalog/ind...3B2853524B5A5B
Often the terms "jig" and "fixture" are confused or used interchangeably; however, there are clear distinctions between these two tools. Although many people have their own definitions for a jig or fixture, there is one universal distinction between the two. Both jigs and fixtures hold, support, and locate the workpiece. A jig, however, guides the cutting tool. A fixture references the cutting tool.
This article concerns traditional machining.To explain fixtures the handbook uses examples of gauge blocks, edge finder, or center finder to position the cutter.
In the case of the Varigrind it seems equivalent to think of the operation from a different perspective: as guiding the cutting tool, the grinding stone - imagine the gouge held stationary and the grinder and wheel moving to shape the gouge. What rationale do others use for calling the Varigrind a fixture?
JKJ
[OP]
Contributor
I'm about to order the Oneway Grinding Jig but don't know which of the two original Vari-Grinds to get, the one for 1/8" - 5/8" or 1/2" - 1 1/8" tools.
Contributor
I think you will get the most use out of the smaller one.
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks again John! I'll order the smaller one.
Moderator
If you are referring to the steb centers here, I suggest one more thing - make sure the one you get has a spring-loaded center point. I have one brand without the spring and I don't use it since it only works correctly in soft wood or if you make a substantial hole in harder wood so the teeth can contact the wood. Forcing a point with no spring into a thin blank of hard and/or brittle wood is likely to cause it to split.
BTW, for thin spindles I always make a hole in the center of each end even if the wood is not hard since it just makes it quicker to mount precisely. I keep a gimlet on a magnet at each lathe.
Gimlet1-300x158.jpg
It is is much quicker to grab the gimlet and make a hole than finding and putting a bit in a power drill.
JKJ
Moderator
Do you plan on bowl or spindle gouges larger than 5/8". That is huge for a gouge. If not, the smaller one would be better. It looks like the larger one will only go down to 1/2" which is bigger than all of my favorite spindle gouges and most of my bowl gouges. Those few people who have 3/4" or larger bowl gouges might get both jigs.
You don't mention it here but I suspect you know you have to buy the Wolverine kit too to get the base and tool support ("V" arm), unless you want to make something yourself.
JKJ
[OP]
Contributor
The end of the first chapter in acquiring enough tools and equipment is coming to a close. It's almost time to begin turning. I ordered the Oneway Jig and Vari-Grind (original version) today along with a couple of spring loaded drive centers, 5/8" and 1". In response to some of the other suggestions, I already have a band saw, chain saw and some of the other misc. items mentioned. I think it's time to start using what I have. I'm sure I'll make other trips to the bank once I get going. Did someone say this hobby is a money pit?
Member
John, I made that comment, chuckling to myself as I typed. Dave Schweitzer has helped me with a couple of sharpening sessions at his shop, and he always makes a point of how it is a fixture, not a jig. I get confused trying to sort it out.Personally, I've long thought that people use the word "jig" because it's only 3 letters and easier to say than "fixture." So goes the English language.
Member
They don't call it the vortex for nothin'!
[OP]
Contributor
After further thought I decided to get an 8" grinder. At $99 the low speed Rikon sounds good but I can't find the sale referred to by member Chris Gunsolley. Is the sale now over? If so, would one of the other brands like Jet be a better bargain?
Member
If you're in need of the full setup and want to go with Wolverine, this is what I bought. It's actually a pretty good combo, given that you get the grinder, wolverine (both bases) and a varigrind: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/158...ening-kit.aspx
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks Aaron but I already purchased the Wolverine setup and Varigrind. My first inclination was to use the Baldor 6" grinder that I already have. But after others have strongly recommended an 8" grinder instead I decided to go in that direction. I would like to purchase another Baldor but they are prohibitively expensive based on my level of use at this time. The Rikon grinder sounded like a good idea at a sale price of $99 but seemed less so at the regular price of $139. I'm wondering if it's worthwhile to consider instead the Jet model. It's yet more expensive but looks better made, sort of a step toward the Baldor. Is there a usual time when these grinders go on sale?
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