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Thread: Advice Please - Wavy cut from Miter saw

  1. #16
    You might want to try one of these.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Marvin Davidson View Post
    Hi David. I know that your post is old, but I'm curious to know if you were able to solve the problem. I too have the exact same problem. I love everything about the saw, except for the wavy cut that you describe. I have sent mine back to Bosch for repair. Was your problem the bearings, or something else. Thanks for any info you can give me.
    Welcome to the Creek!
    Hey, I hope David checks in to answer, but don't be disappointed if he doesn't. It looks like he hasn't logged on here in just over a year.

    I hope Bosch gets your saw sorted out.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
    - Sir Edmund Burke

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Vermont (Home Town Cincinnati, OH)
    I didn’t read all of the other replys so maybe this has been mentioned

    1. Are you taking a fullcut, your issue can magnify when the blade is not fully supported on both sides of the board.

    2. At what width does this occur? 3”, 6”, 12”?

    3. Try a 3”-4”, board tight against the fence, straight down cut (cut off 3/4”, do not slide out) after cutting through do not raise the blade back through the material let the blade stop first - check it, any better?

    4. 3”-4” again this time pull the slide out like as if you were cutting a wider board, cut 3/4” off let the blade stop, don’t bring the spinning blade back through the cut material, is this cut worse?

    5. Repeat #4 with a “6 and 12” ( or close to it)

    if #4 and #5 are wavy
    1. could be excessive run out in the arbor (least likely of the bunch)
    2. the washers clamping the blade are not flat
    3. The blade is not flat
    4. the travel of the slide is not coplaner, even if this isn’t the 100% cause i can almost guarantee you that it is not coplaner and needs adjustment.

    Even if the arbor, washers and blade are within spec you would probably have a total runout of ~0.003-0.005 at the arbor and best case the blade has maybe has ~0.0015. Translate all of that at the tip of the blade and it is even worse.

    For perspective My sliding panel saw has a little less than 0.0005 runout at the arbor and my blades typically have ~0.001-0.002, the centrifugal force probably eliminates most of the blade runout

    The miter saw is a construction tool and not a furniture tool, it can be close But not out of the box without adjustments, if you want a furniture quality mitre saw buy an Omga mitre saw. (I am going to get blow back on

    Or use a ts with a sled and better yet buy a slider, my miter box just collects dust...

    I also tested a ton of mitre saw blades (not a Forrest though, but $120 freud industrial blades and others) and to my surprise found that the stock Makita blade. ( on amazon) left the best cut out of all of them, what was the runout you may ask? Doesn’t matter, its the finished cut, so don’t get to rapped up in the numbers but they are a good way to gauge why way things are going.

    My advice is to first check for coplaner and adjust, if it is not coplaner (it won’t be) you will be recutting with the back of the blade.

    To adjust for coplaner grab a board (i use 1/2” ply) that is the full cut capacity of the saw, clamp the material down so it won’t move and do a straight down cut (plunge down then bring the blade back up) then don’t move the wood pull the slide all the way out make the cut but don’t side back - bring the blade back up.

    If the end of the board is smooth with no step then it is coplaner (surprise! Even I can be wrong...) if it is stepped the slide is not coplaner and needs adjustment. I don’t know how to adjust the Bosch but on the end of the rails of the Makita there are cap screws, you loosen them slightly and take a scrap between the 2 rails and tweek them one way or the other to get them coplaner.

    Last edited by Mark e Kessler; 11-23-2019 at 10:33 AM.

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