Avoiding having 23 gauge pins go out the side?

[glenn bradley]

Bill, Martin and Mike are all correct. That being said, pre-moisten the end grain with glue, wait about half a minute and then apply glue as normal and clamp. There is no need for pins IMHO. I haven't lost one yet ;-)

[Jim Dwight]

I don't think I can see the tips of 23 gauge pins, at least without magnification. I am also doubtful that aligning that feature with the grain (or across it) will stop the pins coming out the side in some wood but I haven't tried it. I have observed that it happens a lot worse in some wood than others. I don't generally have a problem but areas around knots or otherwise with varying wood density can be a problem. In that sort of wood, a spline or something may work a lot better. But usually pins work fine.

[lowell holmes]

My pin driver did come in handy while building a new entrance door. It has three leaded glass panels. I used pins to hold the moulding that holds the glass panels in. The pins only see shear in this case.

They have done their job.

[Mike Heidrick]

What's your regulator set too?

[Ole Anderson]

I really don't believe a pin will add much strength to a well glued joint. It might keep a poorly glued joint from completely failing. That being said, if I felt I needed to do it, I would go with a 1" long 18 ga brad. Less likely to blow out than a pin?

[Rod Sheridan]

Wade, I would use a spline, either hidden or made from contrasting wood to be a design element.........Regards, Rod.

[Bruce Whitaker]

Wade, I would use a spline, either hidden or made from contrasting wood to be a design element.........Regards, Rod.

Wade, there is no way to quickly make strong picture frame joints. My Dad did custom framing in his shop, and I cannot even begin to count the number of picture frames that I have assembled over the last 40 years. A pro shop does not have the time (nor usually the space) to clamp joints until they are dry. We would typically cut a quantity of frames at the chopper and then begin the assembly process: Apply glue to a corner, clamp in they miter vise, drill, nail, nail set and on to the next corner and then to the next frame. An assembled frame would sit overnight or until artwork was ready to assemble. We only used air nailers on moldings less that 1-1 1/2" wide. It is really a judgement based on experience with that particular molding. Now most shops use an underpinning tool such as this: http://www.morso-guillotines.dk/prod...frame_upm.html

Something else to remember is that the wood used in most commercially produced picture frame molding is garbage wood, and often it is not wood at all. What you are paying for is the finish. We tend to use much better quality wood in home shop work because we do not hide it under gesso, gold leaf or Dutch metal, paint or a layer of bonded plastic or aluminum.

Bruce

[Jim Dwight]

Headless pins hold a lot better than sone expect. Pneumatic fasteners in general hold better than manually driven nails. I would trust them for a small miter that is also glued. Larger diameter nails resist deflection beter. So a 18 guage is better than a 23 gauge pin and a 16 guage nail is even better. But the holes get bigger too. Wood may split too. I can often pull a pin with pliers making it less of an issue if it comes out the side. For a small piece or one where a big hole is an issue I use a pin - and hope it goes in right. It usually does.