new compressor ... what kind of piping

[David Hawxhurst]

i like the prevost safety couplers, so thats what i use. if you have the wall mount one the just push in. tool in one hand, air hose in the other and push together so guess thats two handed.

[Mike Cutler]

If you have the know how to sweat pipe, copper would be my recommendation. Installing "black pipe", the correct black pipe, requires that you can run a pipe threader/cutter. It's not hard, but it has a small learning curve to it.

Compression fitting system are nice for people that don't have the above skill sets, or correct tools. Rapid Air makes a nice system. It's a little pricey, but it's flexible, meaning adaptable, and you can always take it with you if you move.

[John K Jordan]

This is what I use on the ends of the hoses (but not from Amazon):

http://www.amazon.com/Milton-Industr.../dp/B00820LVJY

These are great, push the button once to release internal pressure on the connector, push again and the connection comes apart.

Jacob, I have no experience with the other kit you mentioned. I don't think Northern Tool carried that when I bought mine. Maybe it's the larger size pipe which I didn't need. The 1/2" tubing I use works find for everything I have. Besides air nozzles I use impact drivers on vehicles, needle scaler/chisel, random orbital sander, framing nailer, etc.

JKJ

[Jacob Haiduk]

I have to say as I continue to read through all the responses I am just impressed with the wealth of experience and knowledge. That being said I have decided to go with copper and it came down to appearance and the opportunity to learn a new skill as I have never soldered a joint . The look of copper when installed with care is almost artful and i love filling my shop with things that inspire me . I will follow up with some pictures once completed thanks again.-Jacob

[David Hawxhurst]

remember to make the main line slope and the drops start by going up then down to were you need it. at the end of the slope you can put a drop for water removal. if doing a loop system start high and slope down to the other side. the low side with drip leg would be ~180 out from the compressor feed in. on your drops take the air off before the bottom and leave some pipe past the air take off point for moisture removal this will require a valve.

the milton coupler above function the same as the prevost couplers.

[Rick Fisher]

I am just finishing up a system in copper. I'm also using some tubing but the main trunk line is 3/4" Copper with soldered joints.

I would actually consider using Pex in certain applications.. Its much faster, cheaper and if not exposed to sunlight will probably last forever.

Think about installing a drain as someone else suggested ..

[Curt Harms]

I am just finishing up a system in copper. I'm also using some tubing but the main trunk line is 3/4" Copper with soldered joints.

I would actually consider using Pex in certain applications.. Its much faster, cheaper and if not exposed to sunlight will probably last forever.

Think about installing a drain as someone else suggested ..

I wonder if Pex would be affected by fluorescent lights as well as sunlight. Pex seems like a nice alternative if it's durable.

[Martin Wasner]

I haven't noticed an degradation in mine under fluorescent lights. Six years old, (which might be relatively new), and I've got probably better than 200' of tubing including the perimeter run and the drops. It's just ugly since it's not really made to sit straight. Easiest thing to install though if you have access to the special crimper for the fittings.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Having worked in two shops that had black pipe for air lines.. I know that is definitely not my first choice. It rusts inside and makes a mess of tools, gets fine rust dust and particles (which are very abrasive) into anything connected and also blown out the lines with air guns.

In our new shop, built in 2010/2011 I went with heavier wall copper. It didnt seem that expensive, it is commonly available through plumbers wholesalers for less than in retail/lumber yards. I ran larger 1" main lines around the shop with smaller diam. drops and to machinery requiring air.

Transitioning from soldered pipe to NPT threaded fittings was all done in brass, and no steel/iron used = no rust. You'll pay more for the brass fittings but it is a much better solution.

The copper pipe needs only a few straps per length to hold it rigid. I used copper straps and wooden blocks to stand off the pipe from the wall.

The other nice thing is it is very easy to cut and solder a T in place if you need another run. Its a clean system, easy to make leak free joints, very strong and should out last everything else in the shop. No regrets. I'd definitely use copper again.

[Jacob Haiduk]

As far as inline solutions to help with water how effective is an air dryer in general. Should I assemble some configuration of manifold between compressor and and dryer . David I am following everything accept the 180 out from compressor. Should I protect the dryer with a filter or is it a filter in itself .

[Tom M King]

Since you stated that you want it to look neat: To make a neat, nice looking sweated joint on copper, have a clean rag ready, and wipe it while the solder is still hot and soft. You need a clean piece for each wipe, and it can burn skin easily. If it's not wiped while it's hot, it won't look as nice.

Regulator size matters for things like impact guns, and sand blasting. Bigger is better. It doesn't make much sense to use a 1/4" regulator on a 10 cfm compressor. I bought a 3/4" impact gun to work on my tractor, and had to change to a 3/4" regulator to supply it with enough air.

Water filters are better than nothing, but they don't last That long. Best is a refrigerated dryer, which I can tell you will last at least 30 years...and still counting.

[Jacob Haiduk]

Thanks for the tips on sweating Tom .... do you have any filters or regulators between compressor and dryer? I was lead in the direction of a refrigerated dryer so that's what I bought ...good conformation!

[Mike Heidrick]

For those with 3/4" maxline, check out the straightening maxline tab on this page http://www.rapidairproducts.com/page/maxline. It might help you get the maxline more straight. I am thinking I might build one.

[Tom M King]

There is a particulate filter between, but even though I 've changed the filter in it a few times over the years, I've never found anything in it that I could see. The compressor and dryer I bought from an auto body place that used it for a very short time before they found out that they needed a larger one, so it had been used some before I bought it. That was something like 35 years ago. I think Charles Neil is still running a several decades old refrigerated dryer too, and I'm sure he uses his a lot more than I do mine.

[Tom M King]

I don't know what sort of drain you have, or are planning, but I got tired of replacing or fiddling with automatic drains, and just went to a ball valve. That compressor is in a trailer shed outside of, but next to that shop. The floor in the shed is just dirt, so I just let the drain water hit the dirt underneath. The bottom of the compressor is about 3 feet up off the ground. It's well protected from weather, but that shed is 36 feet long, and open on each end.