Hi Everyone. I just wanted to show off my first 2 high quality chisels.
Lie Nielsen 3/8" chisel
and
Koyamaichi 3/4" regular chisel from toolsfromjapan. I still need to buy a hoop setting tool and mushroom over the fibers.
2chisels.jpg
Hi Everyone. I just wanted to show off my first 2 high quality chisels.
Lie Nielsen 3/8" chisel
and
Koyamaichi 3/4" regular chisel from toolsfromjapan. I still need to buy a hoop setting tool and mushroom over the fibers.
2chisels.jpg
Congrats Joey! I think it is a good idea to try out a chisel or two of types you are interested in before investing too deeply. There are lots of nice chisels in so many varieties it can boggle the mind sometimes.
Hope you enjoy them for years to come.
Thanks Mike! It is overwhelming how many options you have! Do you have a personal favorite chisel?
Why not just make your own hoop setting tool in a block of wood? Drill a hole big enough for the wooden handle and taper/(flare?) it out at the top.
Nice babies, though! I bought some rather inexpensive firmer-style oire nomi used just to give Japanese chisels a try. I like the small size for detail work and accurate chopping, and for transport; prefer my western chisels with their border-line bulky handles for paring, though I know there are much more suitable styles of Japanese chisel for paring.
Last edited by Luke Dupont; 06-05-2016 at 1:46 AM.
Very nice! My first premium was a LN 1/2" followed by a LV 1/4". I eventually settled on LN but I could have gone either way. Congrats and may your babies soon have more siblings haha
Joey, I took delivery on 12 & 18mm Usu-nomi recently and they are amazing, very fun to use. Actually my favorite is always the one I have in my hand.
A suitable sized socket will do a good job for hoop setting.
David
In another forum David offered this same advice to me about using a socket and it worked perfectly.
Ooh, I like that. I happened to have an appropriately sized bushing (McMaster-Carr catalog part) on hand the last time I did one, but if I hadn't I hopefully would have thought of that before going overboard.
Q: Do you relieve the top of the handle at all (remove the existing finish and maybe a couple mils of wood) to make a "seat" for the hoop, or just mash it on there? I've seen writeups suggesting both approaches.
Marty Schlosser
Kingston, ON, Canada
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Derek made a point that I think bears reiterating in his comparison of chisel steels: Once you get up to the LV/LN quality level the ergonomics become more of a deciding factor than the steel. Put another way, for most uses both PM-V11 and LN's cryo-treated A2 will last long enough that the handling while actually using them is more practically noticeable any difference in frequency/degree of honing.
Since I don't normally use Japanese chisels, I never dealt with the issue. I don't normally strike a chisel other than mortise chisels. My Ray Iles and Lie Nielsens will take the beating.
I have chopped mortises with blue handle Marples, but they took it.
I only use mallets to strike a chisel, though some one was talking about hitting them with a carpenter's hammer.
Right. For western chisels, a mallet is definitely the way to go. Japanese chisels are made to be used with specialized metal hammers, and have thinner handles, hence the hoop.
I'd say that metal rings/hoops are quite unnecessary on western chisels, but they make sense for Japanese chisels and how they're designed to be used.