Infeed table for Jet JPP-12 jointer / planer

[Erik Loza]

The Aigner's do not require precision drilling, since you bolt through the cast iron table, not into it, so no tapping is required. As Rod said, it's no big deal. I just mock up the mounting lip and mark the spots with a sharpie, then start a pilot hole and then the real hole. Takes maybe 15 mins for both holes. Because you bolt through, there is plenty of room for fine adjustment before you tighten the lip down. Roller stands are another option but I like the Aigners for the fact that you can just stick them on the wall when you are done and also, you can daisy chain them and get as much infeed or outfeed support as you need: 3', 6', 9', whatever you want. We had Aigner lips mounted on every machine in the shop back in the day: Shapers, bandsaws, etc.



Erik

[Prashun Patel]

aha. I should have known they'd be smarter than I!!!

[Cooper Anderson]

This idea is really starting to grow on me. Thanks for the pictures and clear advice.

[Warren Lake]

Cooper since you asked about the height difference here is sort of an answer. I found old photos of rollers both sides then this was in between rollers on infeed and instead of the adjustable horse here is one of my adjustable finish stands on outfeed with melamine on top, its just what is around grab and go. There were times i had material butted to a table and a bit lower or just a support well out from the table it didnt make any difference as I work on the machine not the support, the support was for the material, it was for safety the more it extends off the table. There is less drag and wood flies on the rollers but I still prefer just a piece of melamine and wax it. this was a 14 footer of doing some 14-16 footers. 4/4 rough 8" wide moulding grade pine that I was able to get 7/8" out of flat and straight.

Have to look for photos of the adjustable horses with Melamine on top just one day I was looking at them and thought if I put adjustable metal feet on them they will be more usable for different things. the pipe stand you see is just a round pipe in a pipe and a welded on nut with a bolt you can move it up and down to what you need. The horses would not work for a bandsaw without being blocked up as the bandsaws are higher but the pipe stand would work as it has a good range from low to high.

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[Curt Harms]

I'm partial to a free-standing roller stand that can be moved out of the way. Bolting an infeed permanently means you lose all that shop space permanently. But I'm betting that the 10-11ft jointing requirement is a sometimes thing - not an everyday thing.

Yup, roller stand. Set the height with a long straight edge off the infeed table. I try to cut boards to rough length before face jointing, it makes for less waste.

[Ronald Mancini]

I have done thousands of BF of T&G and I always used a high grade roller stand. Minimum fuss and cost and with a good level you get perfect results every time.

[Derek Stockley]

Here is a picture of my shop-made version with my Hammer A3-26. If I used often, I would probably spend the few hundred to get the aluminum ones Rod suggested, but these only come out once a year or so, so I don't fuss with it too much. These only took a couple of hours to make from scraps.

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Additional pictures and details can be found here: http://www.makingsplinters.com/2014/...ension-tables/

[Curt Harms]

Very clever, Derek. I'd thought about something like that but could never come up with a satisfactory way to attach the extensions to the jointer tables. Never thought about 80/20. Thanks.

[Derek Stockley]

Thanks Curt - Actually, what you're seeing there is the mounting rail for the Hammer's fence. So you did come up with the 80/20 - great idea.