Cutting the fretboard
PimtZf2.jpg
Setting the mother of pearl inlays
7rT7DlH.jpg
Starting the frets
Gxubjin.jpg
All ready for final leveling and polishing
hxzWCJD.jpg
Cutting the fretboard
PimtZf2.jpg
Setting the mother of pearl inlays
7rT7DlH.jpg
Starting the frets
Gxubjin.jpg
All ready for final leveling and polishing
hxzWCJD.jpg
Last edited by Chuck Raudonis; 03-18-2018 at 12:21 AM.
The body is solid mahogany with a raised flamed maple top
The cap with binding
RAKAoCg.jpg
Dyed it brown
G6WjbVa.jpg
Sanded it back to leave the dye only in the figure
yaMyMhF.jpg
Dyed it cherry red
haxuxWP.jpg
Final look after scraping the dye off the binding and before it gets any finish
3Ku3RtR.jpg
Roughing out the body
oTJxcxP.jpg
The body after application of black satin lacquer leaving the center raw to glue the cap on
s0DHBWF.jpg
e9ByFN9.jpg
Beautiful work Sir!
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Very Nice Work Chuck!
Gorgeous! I love the cap and binding. Very creative!
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain
Lovely work, Chuck! I'll echo the very creative.
Thanks everyone! It plays like a dream.
Very good design, and highly innovative, even though there are similar designs like Sky. I always liked the line quality on these bodies with contrasting levels / reveals. Do you plan to show it or start a line of custom guitars (reading your headstock appears so)? If so, you really need to recut and re-apply the binding on top to get rid of the flat spots in the curve. Make a template from 1/4" hardboard, and hand sand the curves with curved sanding blocks until they flow without flat spots, then use the template as a bearing guide to re-route the edge, then re-apply the binding - shouldn't take long. I spend lots of time "fairing" my curves on anything I make, from boats to guitars, and its well worth it ("fairing" is a term used in nautical design to smooth out curves, which are of utmost importance in boat design).
To get a "fair" curve on your template to begin with, make a curve tracing bow, which is a stick of wood about 1/8" thick by one or two inches wide, with holes at the end for string. you bend the "bow" to the radius you want, then clamp the string in place (binderclip). Then draw the curved line right off the bow, tightening and loosening the radius as you go. It will be tighter radius in middle, so the "bow" will provide plenty of variance needed to get the line fair. Then sand to the line, and use curved sanding blocks.
I cheat and use CAD, but I used to make curved templates like this all the time.
john.blazy_dichrolam_llc
Delta Unisaw, Rabbit QX-80-1290 80W Laser, 5 x 12 ft laminating ovens, Powermax 22/44, Accuspray guns, Covington diamond lap and the usual assortment of cool toys / tools.
Very talented you are.