put the boards good side down and in order. Space the boards just under the router bit diameter. 3/8" bit, 1/4" gap. Screw several cleats across the boards and make pencil marks for location during glue up. Flip to top side up attach a straight edge and run the router down the gap of the two boards thus jointing both sides at once. Don't forget to do the outer edges. Make sure router bit cutting depth is just beyond thickness of the boards. Unscrew cleats and line up your pencil marks for glue up. Any variation during routing will be equal on both sides of the boards.


I have a 20 foot long beam and a post in the center to wrap in blue pine, along with 3 4x4 posts to wrap for a stairway and handrails to laminate and machine. (the field here will be antique wrought iron) I am hoping to use a lock miter on the stair posts, building a box that slips over the existing, and I am planning on butt jointing the beam wrap, as with finish the edge will nearly disappear 10 feet off the floor.

I have a few hundred feet of nicely figured blue stain ponderosa pine in 1x6 and 1x4 14' feet long that is quite squirrely along its length. I plan to edge glue to laminate the pieces to get the sides of the beam and post as they are laminated 2x10s for the beam and 5 2x4s for the post.
Getting wider stock will compromise the figure as the fungus grows form the outside in and the center of the trees is usually not colored.

Will the above method work well enough to produce a good lock miter and good edge glue up? I work from my garage and have: ridgid 3650 table saw, home made router table, several routers, and the standard stuff.

anyone make a jig for this? advantage or a certain bit size or type?

also, i was thinking.... dangerous....could you build a fence for your router similar to the "jointing with a router table" method, but move the fence and router while the work piece is stationary?

other better ways of producing a good glue up on long stock?