Domino's and Doors

[Eric Anderson]

To domino DF 500 experts. Partly as an experiment, partly for fun I built a cedar door for my garden shed. The door is 36” wide x 68” tall. Stiles are 5 ½”wide as are top and middle rails, bottom rail is 10”. Door thickness is 1 3/8”. Center panels are glued up and raised on both sides, also 1 3/8” thick. The panels float in place in ½”thick by ½” deep grooves in the rails and stiles that I routed out using a slot cutter. I secured the rails and stiles using three 10 x 50 mm dominos each in the top and middle rails and 6 in the bottom rail. Everything I read says using these smaller dominos shouldn’t be working or holding the door together, but after one year, there are no cracks in the joints and the door is still level and plumb even though the door is outside with temperature (98°F - 31°F) and moisture swings and being rained on. So here is my real question. I want to build some interior doors, most of which will be 24” wide using paint-grade popular. I will use a 1 over 2 raised panel design with probably 5” rails and stiles. The method I used to make the shed door was easy, fun and fast. Is there any reason this technique using the 10 x 50mm domino’s won't work and hold up for an interior door? And if not why is my garden door still in good condition? Thanks for your consideration and discussion.
Eric

[Chris Padilla]

Experience is the best teacher. Indoors are a lot less varied than outdoors.

What kind of glue did you use? Also, they make SIPO dominos that are made for outdoor use (some kind of wood that is rot-resistant, bug-resistant, etc.).

[Eric Anderson]

Thanks Chris,

I used TBIII but did use standard dominos. I thought the big issue was holding power, and it seems to be holding very well. I would think a interior door only 24" wide should hold fine. I cut all of the domino slots, dry fit, clamped and then routed the grooves, disassembled and then inserted the panels. Was really quick and fun to build. I wouldn't mind getting a DF 700, but can't really justify it and there are some other toys I would rather purchase (including a PM 15" planter).

[Jim Dwight]

I replaced all the interior doors in our Pittsburgh house using planned down construction lumber and shelving boards for the panels. They were four panel. I used dowels in some of the first doors and they held up fine. I think I just used 3 1/2 inch dowels. Later I used my plunge router to make some mortises about 2 inches deep and tenons to match. That was a lot better. I now have a benchtop mortiser (and no Domino) and I would use it.

I don't see any problem with your plans. Doubled up 10mm tenons provide more surface area for glue than a larger tenon would. I would fit in several in at least all the corner joints and not worry about them. Even pocket screws make a pretty solid (if not very attractive) door.

[John TenEyck]

Your chance of long term success is much higher with the smaller, interior doors than the one outside. I think the jury is still out on that one. Door design got where it is after hard won experience. No door manufacturer would build an exterior door with 1" tenons. Personally, I wouldn't build an interior one with them either. It's not that hard to make a jig to mill at least 2" deep mortises with your plunge router.

John

[Michelle Rich]

If the door is made entirely of cedar, then I think the lightweight material is your saving grace. Along with the fact you glued in the panels. I think your biggest issue will be sun drying the cedar over time.