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Thread: Looking for tips on Waterlox Original Sealer/ Finish

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    mid-coast Maine and deep space
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    2,656
    I agree with Dan - 7 coats of brushed on is too thick. I disagree that 2 or 3 is sufficient - for varnish - especially sanding between coats. I have found 4 to be very good and 5 to be better - again, sanding between at least the last 2 coats. 7 coats of Waterlox will stay uncured (read - soft) for months - slight exaggeration depending upon relative humidity. And you might have problems with adhesion.

    Waterlox company says that you don't need to sand between coats but I often do unless the layer I am working off is perfect.

    Michael I think your plan to sand the 3rd coat and apply another 2 or 3 as wipe on is a good one and will keep you out of trouble.
    I have never found the need to sand my brushed on Waterlox past 320 grit. I use a good RO sander (I use a Festool ETS 150/3) with Mirka Abranet mesh. The mesh is my go to for sanding any finishes. Otherwise I use Festool Brilliant. I sand the entire surface lightly but smooth. Don't allow the sander to break through the top surface. If this might be an issue sand by hand.

    The hand applied coats should not need to be sanded but if you decide it needs the work then I think I would use 320 or even finer and sand those lightly by hand. The finish must be thoroughly dry. No gumming or rolling of the finish while you sand. I you are getting other than white dust the finish is not yet cured.

    AND - I repeat this technique that I have been describing through my posts is in regards to flat surfaces such as table tops or shelves or bar tops. I use different methods for applying Waterlox to vertical surfaces and small areas - another subject for another time.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Glen Mills, PA
    Posts
    443
    What do I use for hand applying waterlox? The instructions say use a rag, but I don't have any true "lint free" rags so that's a concern. Also, would 220 grit be OK between coats? That's the highest I found for my RO sander

  3. #18
    Use blue shop towels from Home Depot.
    220 is too aggressive. Use 400 or 600 every three wiped coats. Don't sand between each wiped coat.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    FYI Waterlox Original Sealer/ Finish is a WIPE-ON varnish. 7 coats is about equal to two brush on of Waterlox Original.

    The Sealer/Finish is thinned. So 7 coats is not too much finish.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Glen Mills, PA
    Posts
    443
    After sanding with 320 Grit, I applied a fourth brush on coat. This coat was actually the smoothest coat I have ever done. My next two I plan to make wipe on. Question though... I can see scratch marks from the sandpaper even though I went with the grain. Will the wipe on coats hide these?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Glen Mills, PA
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    443
    For those of you who do wipe on, how exactly do you do it? I can't find any videos. Do you just dip a rag and varnish, wipe, and you're good? And is it with the grain, or more in a swirling motion?

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Yadfar View Post
    For those of you who do wipe on, how exactly do you do it? I can't find any videos. Do you just dip a rag and varnish, wipe, and you're good? And is it with the grain, or more in a swirling motion?
    Michael, I decant the Waterlox OSF into a smaller container, then just dip the rag (I use Scotts 'rags' in a box) in the product and wipe on the thinnest, most even and tight coat of the product going with the grain. I am not sure it matters much if one goes with or against the grain, but the habit of going with the grain just seems correct to me.

    The benefit of using a rag and putting a minimal amount of product on, is the product will flash fast, minimizing the problems that occur with heavier coats of Waterlox. As far as sanding, I use pretty fine paper, 1000 - 1200, just before the last coat..

    Also, unless it's a smaller project, I use multiple rags to apply the product. I find the rags start to degrade from the friction of application and start leaving their own nibs...
    Last edited by Robert LaPlaca; 04-25-2016 at 7:30 PM.

  8. Quote Originally Posted by Michael Yadfar View Post
    After trying the natural bristle brush then sharp foam brush, after layer 3, there's much improvement! However though, the surface still is a bit rough and does have air bubbles. I will probably try sanding it and finishing up with whipe on coats. My question in regards to sanding though, how much do I sand? Do I just vigorously sand until smooth? And what grit, 300?
    I use 600 wet/dry paper. And don't use a RO sander, just hand sand with a block. You're not taking off enough material to justify using a RO sander.

  9. #24
    Wipe in large circles like a waiter wiping a table at the diner. Don't wipe with the grain. Let the product level itself and pop its own bubbles. If you move quickly and don't recipe unless you missed a spot, you will get good results. dont be discouraged if the first coat looks streaky. Within a few coats your results will improve.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Glen Mills, PA
    Posts
    443
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Wipe in large circles like a waiter wiping a table at the diner. Don't wipe with the grain. Let the product level itself and pop its own bubbles. If you move quickly and don't recipe unless you missed a spot, you will get good results. dont be discouraged if the first coat looks streaky. Within a few coats your results will improve.
    Is it normal for it to look like nothing was applied after the first coat?

  11. #26
    yes. give it 8 hours and put on another coat. Don't do it sooner than that if the surface has any kind of drag; you want that rag to move slick and quick.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Glen Mills, PA
    Posts
    443
    After completing my finish, it's only "OK", but its definitely progress. The finish is uneven, kind of like a pond with a small breeze, but for the most part the air bubbles are gone which makes me happy. The problem I believe is that I used way too much. I used 5 brush on coats and 5 wipe on coats. I'm happy though because the advice I got definitely helped. I completely ditched the foam brush and went with only a natural bristle brush, and that alone made a much smoother finish. The wipe on was the smoothest yet. Sanding between wipe on coats was a difference maker, but I sanded a bit too heavy which caused a few issues. The reason I used so many coats was mostly because I was experimenting different techniques and made a few mistakes. Next time, I think with 3 brush on and a few wipe on, I should be set. These two tables are for me, so while I'm a bit disappointed, they will pass and I can just sand down and start the tops over again once I master this. It's not like a badly fitting joint or anything where I can't go back and fix it

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