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Thread: Which 'old' hand tools are indispensable in your shop?

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  1. #1

    Which 'old' hand tools are indispensable in your shop?

    This is a question I've wanted to ask a few times but never got around to it. I have a good mix (I think) of old and new tools (I own a few Veritas planes, Stanley planes, mainly old Disston saws, some old and newer chisels and recently a nice Spiers panel plane etc).

    i would say that every hand tool I buy, I buy to use, although I must admit to buying some that I don't really 'need' like my Preston spokeshave. However I do love buying a tool, tuning it up, using it and then making a decision if I want to keep it or resell to someone who will use it - I might lose a few bucks and some time but I get the experience of using a different tool.

    So I just wanted to open up the floor for people as to which tools do you really feel that you wouldn't want to live without? Might be for functional reasons (a plain and simple no.4) of for other reasons (I imagine a Norris smoother would be amazing to own). What do you not own that you would like to own? Pictures would be great to see as well. i find that my wish list is growing so would love to hear some of yours as well!

    thanks!
    Last edited by Andrew Schofield; 04-08-2016 at 2:28 PM.

  2. #2
    I wouldn't part with my Grandfather's MF#9 smoothing plane. Both for sentimental reasons and because it takes such lovely, thin shavings.

    Like to own? Large MF miter box. Despite what Chris Schwartz says, they aren't just lying around in every oldtimer's garage and they are fairly expensive to have shipped. But one day....

  3. #3
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    It is a long list of tools frequently used.

    Try squares may be the most indispensable. If it doesn't start square, it likely won't end square without some way to check for square.

    A few good saws always get used.

    I do not need each and everyone of my hand planes but it sure is nice being able to pick what at the moment seems the perfect one for the job at hand.

    Chisels are another abundant tool in my shop. Likely way more than I really need.

    There are other ways to drill holes than a brace and auger bits, but I like mine a lot.

    My spokeshaves make a world of difference on some projects.

    Is sharpening equipment considered a tool? It is indispensable in my shop.

    Then there are the marking tools, gimlets, measuring devices etc...

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #4
    Oddly enough in this day and age of the powerful lightweight 18volt lithium-ion cordless drills , a good egg-beater drill. Precision for small holes is easy.

  5. #5
    I have a Stanley 65 knuckle joint low angle block plane with a LV PM-V11 blade that I use on just about every project. Haven't found a better block plane yet.

    Don't remember the age but it's a sweetheart or earlier, not recent.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  6. #6

    Checking for Square is easy peasy!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    [snip]

    Try squares may be the most indispensable. If it doesn't start square, it likely won't end square without some way to check for square.

    [snip]jtk
    Lots of good thoughts in your post, but I just couldn't let this one pass. It is easy to check a try square for accuracy.

    Take a flat surface with a straight edge. Draw a pencil line square to the edge with the try square. Then flip the try square over and registering on the same edge at the first line at the edge, draw the pencil line again. Then look at the result. If the lines are "the same" (i.e., overlapping), the tool is dead-on square. If the lines diverge at the far end, the tool is out of square by 1/2 the resulting divergence angle. If the tool is adjustable, make the indicated adjustment and repeat. If the tool is not adjustable, you may be out of luck and out the price you paid, but many old try squares can be adjusted. If you build one yourself, you should make it adjustable as a "future feature" of your tool, too.

    Edit: Do make sure you draw both the lines from the same edge of the blade of the try square. If one line is drawn with the inside of the blade and the other with the outside, the information content is zero. Each blade edge must be done individually. Now that I've said it, it may seem obvious, but I've seen a couple of guys get this part wrong and then curse the procedure (and me) for bad results. In both cases, the lighting was better on the right hand side of the work, so they "naturally" drew the line on the right hand side of the blade where they could see better.
    Last edited by James Waldron; 04-09-2016 at 12:28 PM. Reason: complete the thought
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    Jim Waldron

  7. #7
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    I have a 3, 4, & 5 Baileys (type 11 & 13) that see a lot of use. Additionally, two old Disstons (X-cut & Rip). Most of my older tools are my granfather's smithing tools.

    I hardly use my breast drill.
    Shawn

    "no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."

    "I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"

  8. #8
    Not vintage, but I thought that there were some interesting suggestions when I asked this question starting from mult-function tools: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...Bonsa-Tool-Kit

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Adams View Post
    Not vintage, but I thought that there were some interesting suggestions when I asked this question starting from mult-function tools: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...Bonsa-Tool-Kit
    That made me realize what my two indispensable hand tools are. My ratcheting screw driver and my needle nose pliers (Fluke Ethernet cable pliers: needle nose, wire cutter, wire stripper, clamper).

  10. #10
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    If the tool is adjustable, make the indicated adjustment and repeat. If the tool is not adjustable, you may be out of luck and out the price you paid, but many old try squares can be adjusted.
    I am not aware of any adjustable vintage try squares. I know about adjusting a framing square or a combination square.

    For my try squares I have used the method you described. I inspect my knife lines with an inspectors loop with a reticle similar to this one:

    1728a.jpg

    http://www.edmundoptics.com/microsco...mparator/1600/

    If the blade is measurably out on a fixed try square I work it carefully with a file to correct it.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 04-09-2016 at 8:32 PM. Reason: added vintage
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #11
    Of my old tools, my grandfather's Stanley #3 is indispensable. It gets used on just about every piece of wood that comes off my bench. I also use the #4 and #5 fairly regularly, but the #3 is used on almost everything.

    Other than that? Well, almost all my tools are old, so I could just show you a picture of my tool chest. There are some I'd love to replace, some I dread replacing, and some that have already been moved to the "display cabinet" shelf.

  12. #12
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    The ones seen throughout these photos. Sorry I didn't feel up to pasting a bunch in this message individually. https://www.flickr.com/photos/chevy_...57607001006126

    well maybe one. 3354647916_7d5c6e017a_z.jpg
    Last edited by Sean Hughto; 04-08-2016 at 6:10 PM.
    ~ Do not seek to follow in the footsteps of the men of old; seek what they sought.

  13. #13
    hatchet
    got split the kindling for the fire
    ;o)
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  14. #14
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    I have some old, cheap beater chisels that are perfect. They aren't nice enough that anyone would steal them or buy them. I've used them to scrape paint, rust, glue, gunk and on occasion to mortise or clean up shoulders or tenons. I'd give the egg beater drill a nod as well. On more than one occasion I've fitted hinges in the house instead of out in the shop. Using the egg beater to drill the pilot holes allows me to sometimes go undetected by those who don't appreciate sawdust being made in the house.

  15. #15
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    Hi Andrew,

    There are quite a few tools that I don't have....yet....but consider those essential, and hope to have most of them in the next year or two. That said, the ones I have now, use a lot and consider absolutely essential include:

    1. handsaws: 8 pt CC, 12 pt CC, 7 pt rip,
    2. chisels: butt firmers: 1/4" to 1&1/4" (I wouldn't need all of the sizes),
    3. squares: try square, combination square, framing square,
    4. my grandfathers old mallet,
    5. 4' straight edge,
    6. bench planes: Stanley sizes 7,5, & 4 (I have others I use quite a bit too but those thee are the minimum I would want to get by with),
    7. block planes,
    8. chalk line,
    9. brace, bits, and special file for sharpening same,
    10. Stanley 45, which I don't use a lot....yet...but hope to much more and would use it a lot more if we had no electricity,
    11. gents saw and coping saw,
    12. MF miter box,
    13. utility knife,
    14. various files and rasps,
    15. router plane,
    16. sanding blocks,
    17. various hammers, tape measures, screwdrivers, a few tailed drills, a portaline drilling guide, and bits,

    Almost all of the tools are quite old, but in good shape, many I have restored. I didn't include my dads old table saw and my saw sled, but would hate to be without it. I tried to concentrate on the hand tools as after all this is the Neander forum, and I use these more than the power tools, but will likely add a few power tools later.

    I may add more later.

    Stew
    Last edited by Stew Denton; 04-09-2016 at 9:21 PM.

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