"Lifting point" in shop ceiling?

[Jim Barstow]

I wish I had put a steel beam running the length of my shop for a hoist but I didn't...

I'd like to install a single "lifting point" in the ceiling that I can use for lifting machines. The immediate need is for lifting a supermax 19-38 (200 lbs) which is arriving soon. I would like to have a load capacity of 500 lbs.

The shop ceiling is sheetrock over I-Joists with no attic.

Any better ideas than these 2?

1) heavy screw eye lag bolt. This would probably be sufficient of the 200 lb load but I don't think I'd use it for anything more

2) attach a plate spanning 2 I-Joists using structural screws. Install an eye bolt in the center.

Incidentally, I was hoping to use a winch running through a pulley attached to the "lifting point" to do the actual work. (For the 200 lb load, a simple block and tackle would work but I already have the winch.)

I've also thought about getting a "shop crane" aka engine lift but they take up a lot of space and I'd use it very rarely.

[Greg R Bradley]

An I-Joist is not designed to hang any weight from the bottom flange. It is designed to support weight resting on the top flange.
200 pounds isn't substantial weight but probably still not a good idea even spanning two.

[Steve Peterson]

I don't understand what you mean by I-joists with no attic. Are the I-joists used as rafters?

200lbs does not sound like much weight for a single beam. It seems perfectly safe to spread that across 2 beams. There is a risk if you attach to the bottom of the beam through the sheetrock. The lower cord is fairly small and is not meant to be pulled on. It would be safer if you could put a wood block above the beams so the pressure is compressive. My second choice would be to open up the sheetrock to allow a vertical 2x12 block between 2 joists. This would require cutting 3 holes so you could get screws into the block from the back side of the webbing.

Steve

[rudy de haas]

First, I'd want a lot more info before commenting on the suitability of either approach because there's no way to estimate load bearing capacity without knowing a lot more about the structure. Second, in your place I'd be concerned about long term use - is the next load going to be 400 pounds? Will a center point be the right point next time? etc.

An out of the box solution may be to buy a swing set. Walmart's "supersport 6" is about $170 retail and claims to support 600 pounds 73" up over a 130" span - presumably not all in the center! Plus, you can put it anywhere you want with the legs well out of the way for working on whatever you hang from it, move the load along the top support, and quickly disassemble it into a neat flat pack when you don't need it.

[kipp yeakel]

Why not just make a simple frame from pressure treated 4x4, that stuff is cheap, and could be knocked down when your done using it.

Kipp

[David Gutierrez]

Are these roof rafters? if you live in a area that see's snow in the winter time then you probably will have no problem lifting that load. if the load is spread across 3 rafters that should work. how you do this with out attaching to the bottom cord is another thing, no suggestions that do not require removing ceiling. Also would use a steel eye that is threaded with a washer and nut, much stronger.

[Ray Newman]

Folding engine hoist??

[Dick Brown]

Not knowing the width/length of your shop it is hard to make a recommendation but have you thought about cutting out the sheetrock between two of your Ijoists and installing a steel beam parallel to them with the ends resting on the wall upper plate or with legs under the ends resting on the floor for support and with a trolley? Had one in a shop a few years back and couldn't believe how much I used it.

[Peter Aeschliman]

An I-Joist is not designed to hang any weight from the bottom flange. It is designed to support weight resting on the top flange.
200 pounds isn't substantial weight but probably still not a good idea even spanning two.

I just thought I'd quote Greg's post for emphasis, so that it doesn't get lost in the responses. If these are wood I-beams, with the OSB material between two flanges, then hanging a lot of weight from the bottom flange with an eye bolt is a really really bad idea. You could pull the flange off of the bottom, and/or strip out the hole.

I like Kipp's idea- make a gantry crane type of thing, but one that you can knock down and store. Check out this video from Frank Howarth. His isn't designed to be disassembled easily, but you get the idea:

[NICK BARBOZA]

Engine hoist is the way to to. I still use mine even though I now have a tractor with a loader.
I got the Harbor freight 2 ton folding engine hoist on sale and with a 20% off coupon. It ended up in the $150 range. Fold it up and tuck it in the corner, its a real back saver that has paid dividends for me. Also, the engine hoist can be used anywhere in your shop (or driveway or some other person's shop...) instead of one single lifting point located in your shop with no flexibility.

Cheers,
NWB

[Jerome Stanek]

Why not get a shop crane from Harbor freight

[Greg R Bradley]

As a subscriber to the APA Engineered Association, I guess I've seen enough warnings to think most people understand just how different I-Joists are than conventional joists.

One recent article explained how hanging a pot rack, as in kitchen pots and pans, from multiple I-Joists in the ceiling of a kitchen is an absolute NO.

Another explained how small drywall screws into the bottom flange are exempt from the rule of "no drilling". Small screws and nails spread the wood fibers and most of the wood strength is still left. They do still require alternating drywall screws offset from each other by 3". So even drywall screws are not supposed to be side by side in a bottom flange.

Another explained that when you have to add plywood to each side so that you can mount something or drill a hole for a tube to pass through, you need to use lots of glue and few screws going through the web.

Weight needs to sit on, or hang from, the top flange.

Builders like this because it is cheap and dimensionally stable. Once you start using your basement or garage for something like a woodworker might want, you can see the downsides.

[Bryan Lisowski]

How about a friend and a 6 pack! If you are doing this just for the supermax, my comment is less of a joke. I would think the HF engine hoist or shop crane would be best if you plan on doing more heavy lifting.

[Wade Lippman]

What do you need a hoist for? My wife and I put my 19/38 up and I don't recall it being a big deal. Maybe I am missing something.
We also put up a Grizzly 3hp cyclone; maybe she is really strong.

A few years ago I read that the bottom plate had to be strong enough to support a man falling off a ladder and grabbing it. Of course that might be entirely different than drilling a hole in it; or what I read might not be right.

[Randall J Cox]

i borrowed a small engine hoist with folding legs from a friend and rebuilt a couple of 450 lb machines. I think that is the way to go. Either buy, rent or borrow. Some on CL pretty reasonable. Just make sure it has folding legs to maneuver in a tight shop.