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Thread: Building Your Own Oneida Realtime Filter Efficiency Gauge

  1. #46
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    Finally got around to installing my Magnehelic this weekend. Just a quick job solution, but it works. Whole system is brand new still and you can see the needle at about 0.5" when running with one port open.

    Still havent run a support wire/cable off the plenum, so thats why the stool is under the filter, to support the weight of the filter. I also still have to get the bin sensor circuit figured out. Got the Banner sensor installed in the drum lid, but havent finished laying out the circuit to do what Im planning yet. Ill post that in the bin sensor thread when its done though.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ben Rivel; 08-08-2016 at 12:10 PM.
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  2. #47
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    Looks good...please post the info about the bin level sensor as I want to put one in if yours works well.

  3. #48
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    Ben, did you install a pitot tube in the duct as Oneida does or did you just connect the gauge to a hose barb fitting into the duct as others here have done?
    I got a new magnehelic (0-4 inch wc) today at a good price; just wondering if getting a pitot tube is worthwhile (I'm thinking not).

  4. #49
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    I just attached my Magnahelic gauge to the duct just before the filter and it works well. I do not think there is any need for a pitot tube.

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Andersen View Post
    Ben, did you install a pitot tube in the duct as Oneida does or did you just connect the gauge to a hose barb fitting into the duct as others here have done?
    I got a new magnehelic (0-4 inch wc) today at a good price; just wondering if getting a pitot tube is worthwhile (I'm thinking not).
    I installed mine exactly as Oneida did with a pilot tube (Dywer A-302 Static Pressure Tip) going into the plenum between the output of the impeller housing and the filter.

    Heres an updated shot. Finally got a steel wire strung to support the filter hanging off the side, but still havent gotten the dust level sensor hooked up. Been too busy with other stuff to design the circuit the way I wanted to. I will add that info to the other thread I created on that when I finally get that up and running though.

    File Nov 25, 4 25 05 PM small.jpg

    And I can still open the garage door. The picture makes it look like it's going to hit the top of the motor, but its actually about an inch and a half below it.
    Last edited by Ben Rivel; 12-01-2016 at 11:37 AM.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  6. #51
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    I am in process of installing my Magnihellic guage, **without** a pitot tube, as a filter efficiency gauge on my Oneida 2.5 hp Super Gorilla DC. It has the older, non-HEPA filter. Oneida's instructions for installing their efficiency gauge, which does use a pitot tube, calls for it to be installed in the plenum elbow just above the filter as shown here:
    https://www.manualguru.com/oneida-ai...manual/page-21
    The plenum elbow is 8 inch diameter round in cross section so drilling and tapping for the hose barb there is more challenging than drilling and tapping into the horizontal flat flange where the filter attaches to the plenum. Theoretically, the pressure should be the same in the two locations. Any reason not to install the hose barb in
    the flange rather than the plenum?

  7. #52
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    Don't know what I'm doing wrong but just fitted Ben's list of parts to a Clear Vue following the instructions, and I get negative pressure if I hook the tube up to the High side of the Magnahelic. If I switch it to the low side I get 1.5 in of WG - checked the ports several times to make sure I was hooking up to the right one

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Giddings View Post
    Don't know what I'm doing wrong but just fitted Ben's list of parts to a Clear Vue following the instructions, and I get negative pressure if I hook the tube up to the High side of the Magnahelic. If I switch it to the low side I get 1.5 in of WG - checked the ports several times to make sure I was hooking up to the right one
    1.5in doesn't sound too far off. How long have you had and been using the ClearVue?
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  9. #54
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    Ben, about 2 months - I'm not worried about the pressure reading - as you say its in the right ballpark.

    I'm concerned that the single tube is supposed to go to the high side of the gauge and mine only works if its on the low side? If I hook it up as per the instructions in your original post I get a negative reading. The spare ports on the gauge are blocked but I left one low and one high open to the air

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Giddings View Post
    Ben, about 2 months - I'm not worried about the pressure reading - as you say its in the right ballpark.

    I'm concerned that the single tube is supposed to go to the high side of the gauge and mine only works if its on the low side? If I hook it up as per the instructions in your original post I get a negative reading. The spare ports on the gauge are blocked but I left one low and one high open to the air
    Hmmm... That is weird. You have the other pair of ports not being used plugged right?
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Hmmm... That is weird. You have the other pair of ports not being used plugged right?
    Yes. Just one open High and Low. Others are plugged.

    I just switched out the A-302 for a standard barbed fitting, plugged the tube into the high port and I get a positive reading of 0.5 in WG. There must be something strange going on with the A-302 - either my placement or a defect. Anyway up and running now as I'll stick to the barbed fitting - thanks for the How to guide, Ben

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Giddings View Post
    Yes. Just one open High and Low. Others are plugged.

    I just switched out the A-302 for a standard barbed fitting, plugged the tube into the high port and I get a positive reading of 0.5 in WG. There must be something strange going on with the A-302 - either my placement or a defect. Anyway up and running now as I'll stick to the barbed fitting - thanks for the How to guide, Ben
    Well, glad you got it working and that the guide helped. And if you havent seen it already, check out the thread I did on making the Oneida Bin Sensor: LINK
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Well, glad you got it working and that the guide helped. And if you havent seen it already, check out the thread I did on making the Oneida Bin Sensor: LINK
    Already made the sensor, Ben - thanks for checking

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Very nice Ben.

    You can also build a manometer with a length of 1/4" clear tubing and some water in it...........Rod.
    Exactly. Couple drops of food coloring make it easier to see. Form a U from tubing and connect one end to the filter's air flow. If there's no restriction the liquid in both legs of the U should be close to the same level. As the filter starts to clog there is more back pressure so the liquid in one leg of the U will be higher than the other. The question then becomes at what height differential should you clean the filter?

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    Exactly. Couple drops of food coloring make it easier to see. Form a U from tubing and connect one end to the filter's air flow. If there's no restriction the liquid in both legs of the U should be close to the same level. As the filter starts to clog there is more back pressure so the liquid in one leg of the U will be higher than the other. The question then becomes at what height differential should you clean the filter?
    Good point. I just think the Gauge looks very cool. And since they are pretty cheap I just couldnt see why not go that route.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

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