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Thread: Building Your Own And Improving Upon The Oneida Dust Sentry Bin Level Sensor

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    63
    Installed my bin sensor today. Works fine with a manual test, but time will tell how well it does measuring actual dust levels in the bin.

    I bought the Banner QS18VN6D from China via Bhiner. Two versions were available depending on cord length: a 12 inch cord at US$10.60 or a standard length cord (6 ft?) at US$15.95. I chose the short cord. With all fees and shipping came to US$31.98.

    The strobe is the one linked by Ben from e-bay, US$3.37 delivered. The power supply is this one
    http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-WW...r-p-62956.html
    at CDN$6.46 (approx. US$4.75). I wanted a 240v input rated corded power supply so I could cut the input plug off and wire it directly to the 240v motor output of the magnetic starter. That way the power supply is powered only when the DC is running, a feature I wanted.

    I mounted the strobe on the lid of a Hammond 1591GSBK box CDN$5.93 (approx US$4.50) and installed a DC power jack and a cable gland in the box side to receive the cable from the MOLEX connector I used at the sensor. Connectors, cable, and washers to mount the sensor came to CDN$12.50 (approx US$9.25).

    All in, about US$54.00. If it works well with actual dust levels, I will be happy. I've had to clean filters, etc. a couple of times from overfull bins, and that did not make me happy!

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Lugoff, SC
    Posts
    75
    So, right now I am simply running my collector without a bag in the barrel... I have found that it isn't the sensor that is the problem, rather it's the fact that getting a seal on the bag is next to impossible, so the vacuum inside the barrel often results in a collapse of the plastic "cylinder" used to hold the bag open and the bag ends up setting off the sensor... Does anyone have an idea as to how to correctly achieve a seal with the plastic bags?

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Andersen View Post
    Installed my bin sensor today. Works fine with a manual test, but time will tell how well it does measuring actual dust levels in the bin.

    I bought the Banner QS18VN6D from China via Bhiner. Two versions were available depending on cord length: a 12 inch cord at US$10.60 or a standard length cord (6 ft?) at US$15.95. I chose the short cord. With all fees and shipping came to US$31.98.

    The strobe is the one linked by Ben from e-bay, US$3.37 delivered. The power supply is this one
    http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-WW...r-p-62956.html
    at CDN$6.46 (approx. US$4.75). I wanted a 240v input rated corded power supply so I could cut the input plug off and wire it directly to the 240v motor output of the magnetic starter. That way the power supply is powered only when the DC is running, a feature I wanted.

    I mounted the strobe on the lid of a Hammond 1591GSBK box CDN$5.93 (approx US$4.50) and installed a DC power jack and a cable gland in the box side to receive the cable from the MOLEX connector I used at the sensor. Connectors, cable, and washers to mount the sensor came to CDN$12.50 (approx US$9.25).

    All in, about US$54.00. If it works well with actual dust levels, I will be happy. I've had to clean filters, etc. a couple of times from overfull bins, and that did not make me happy!
    Nicely done Ken!

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Stockdale View Post
    So, right now I am simply running my collector without a bag in the barrel... I have found that it isn't the sensor that is the problem, rather it's the fact that getting a seal on the bag is next to impossible, so the vacuum inside the barrel often results in a collapse of the plastic "cylinder" used to hold the bag open and the bag ends up setting off the sensor... Does anyone have an idea as to how to correctly achieve a seal with the plastic bags?
    So youre saying the Drum Liner from Oneida (LINK) is collapsing when using a bag in the drum? Are you using a steel or fiber drum from Oneida? Just to make sure you used the little snap in pieces that lock the drum liner together? You checked out the troubleshooting guide from Oneida (LINK)? Also what bags are you using? The Oneida ones and if not what mil thickness are they?

    Just some things to consider.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Lugoff, SC
    Posts
    75
    Yes... The drum liner is from Oneida... The plastic clips that hold it together didn't last a day... Ended up with bolts/nuts/washers holding the cylinder in place... The bags are the ones supplied by Oneida and it is a fiber drum, but I have caulked every seam with silicon caulk, and taped (with aluminum a/c tape) the seams externally. The system has a band clamp that holds the lid to the drum nice and tight... The source of the vacuum leakage has to be the folds in the bags at the top of the drum (no way to avoid as the bags do not stretch tight over the drum)... System works great without the bags... just a pain to clean up the drum every time I empty it...

  5. #35
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    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Stockdale View Post
    Yes... The drum liner is from Oneida... The plastic clips that hold it together didn't last a day... Ended up with bolts/nuts/washers holding the cylinder in place... The bags are the ones supplied by Oneida and it is a fiber drum, but I have caulked every seam with silicon caulk, and taped (with aluminum a/c tape) the seams externally. The system has a band clamp that holds the lid to the drum nice and tight... The source of the vacuum leakage has to be the folds in the bags at the top of the drum (no way to avoid as the bags do not stretch tight over the drum)... System works great without the bags... just a pain to clean up the drum every time I empty it...
    Wow, well Im out of suggestions. Man, that sucks. I hope I dont run into that problem with mine as I bought the same setup except with the steel drum. Have you called Oneida about it to see what they have to say r suggest? Im betting theyve had more than a few complain about this issue and thats why why released that troubleshooting document I linked to about the issue.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    63
    Michael,

    I have the "gripper" that Oneida used to sell before the introduction of the drum liner. It is a small vacuum pump that removes the air between the bag and the drum. Works fine. However, I have read of many others that accomplish the same thing, i.e., equalize the air pressure inside the bag with that between the drum and the bag, by simply installing one end of a plastic tube in the wall of the drum and the other end on the vacuum side of the DC. It is such a simple solution that I'm tempted to try it myself, but as long as the gripper keeps working I have less incentive to do so. I'll post a link if I can find one.

    Added: Here's a link, see especially respone 29 and 32.
    https://forum.canadianwoodworking.co...er-dust-deputy
    Last edited by Ken Andersen; 05-11-2016 at 6:15 PM. Reason: added link

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Berwick, Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    425
    I just did a simple mod to deal with the issue. I took a small shop vac and stuck the hose into the barrel through a hole in the bottom side of the barrel (55 gal). No caulking or sealing, just a reasonably tight fit. Shop vac is activated by the same remote that turns on my DC. In my opinion, much better solution than making holes in my DC.
    Mike

  8. #38
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    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Chalmers View Post
    I just did a simple mod to deal with the issue. I took a small shop vac and stuck the hose into the barrel through a hole in the bottom side of the barrel (55 gal). No caulking or sealing, just a reasonably tight fit. Shop vac is activated by the same remote that turns on my DC. In my opinion, much better solution than making holes in my DC.
    I dont think youd have to make a hole in the dust collector, just the incoming ductwork going into the main inlet. And if that were the case, I think Id rather do that then dedicate a whole vacuum just to keep the bag in my dust collectors dust bin pressed against the bin. There just has to be a simpler way.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  9. #39
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    May 2014
    Location
    Lugoff, SC
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    75
    That actually sounds like a plausible solution... I may well give it a try! Thanks guys, I love this place!

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Stockdale View Post
    That actually sounds like a plausible solution... I may well give it a try! Thanks guys, I love this place!
    If you try it let us know!
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  11. #41
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Lugoff, SC
    Posts
    75
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Andersen View Post
    Michael,

    I have the "gripper" that Oneida used to sell before the introduction of the drum liner. It is a small vacuum pump that removes the air between the bag and the drum. Works fine. However, I have read of many others that accomplish the same thing, i.e., equalize the air pressure inside the bag with that between the drum and the bag, by simply installing one end of a plastic tube in the wall of the drum and the other end on the vacuum side of the DC. It is such a simple solution that I'm tempted to try it myself, but as long as the gripper keeps working I have less incentive to do so. I'll post a link if I can find one.

    Added: Here's a link, see especially respone 29 and 32.
    https://forum.canadianwoodworking.co...er-dust-deputy
    Thanks Ken! That actually looks like it will work. I can't see how it would hurt to try it. Worst case, if it doesn't work, I have a couple of 1/2" holes to plug... I'll let you know how it works.

  12. #42
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    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
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    Yea post #29 sounds like no problem at all.

    I stopped in at our favourite orange BORG and picked up a 10' length of 3/8" flexible plastic tubing for $4.97, plus two connectors from the plumbing section (little guys with a barb on one end and a male threaded opening on the other) and two matching nuts and washers. I put a little goop glue on the barbs and popped one in each end of the plastic line, then drilled two 1/2" holes: 1 in the bottom of my barrel, and another in the collar on the suction opening of the dust collector. Then I just stuck the threaded ends in, tightened the nut on the other side, and voila: I was off to the races.

    I also tuck taped an old brillo pad over the opening inside the barrel, as someone recomended above.
    I left the full 10' of line so that I could still have lots of slack to roll the barrel out.
    Only issue I have with that is what about when I want to drag the barrel out to the garbage? The bleed line hose would have to be disconnected each time. Not a terrible inconvenience, but if its under the barrel that might get a little annoying. Maybe if I do this Ill put a right angle going into the bottom of the barrel with some sort of quick disconnect.

    So if going this route would it still be necessary to use the drum liner?
    Last edited by Ben Rivel; 05-12-2016 at 1:56 PM.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  13. #43
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    May 2014
    Location
    Lugoff, SC
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    75
    Ben,

    Not sure about the Liner... In theory, I'd say, NO... it's probably not necessary... though I can't see what it could hurt...

  14. #44
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    Mar 2012
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    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Yea post #29 sounds like no problem at all.



    Only issue I have with that is what about when I want to drag the barrel out to the garbage? The bleed line hose would have to be disconnected each time. Not a terrible inconvenience, but if its under the barrel that might get a little annoying. Maybe if I do this Ill put a right angle going into the bottom of the barrel with some sort of quick disconnect.

    So if going this route would it still be necessary to use the drum liner?
    The tube into the drum doesn't need to be in the bottom of the drum; in the side near the bottom is fine. Allowing some length to the tube, you can pull the drum from under the lid far enough to remove the bag without disconnecting the tube. So you won't be dragging the *barrel* to the garbage, only the *bag*! You no longer need the "liner".

  15. #45
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    Oct 2013
    Location
    Berwick, Nova Scotia, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Andersen View Post
    The tube into the drum doesn't need to be in the bottom of the drum; in the side near the bottom is fine. Allowing some length to the tube, you can pull the drum from under the lid far enough to remove the bag without disconnecting the tube. So you won't be dragging the *barrel* to the garbage, only the *bag*! You no longer need the "liner".
    +1 to this. The whole idea is to avoid lugging the drum around. To do otherwise defeats the purpose of putting a bag in the drum at all. Kinda defeats the purpose.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    I dont think youd have to make a hole in the dust collector, just the incoming ductwork going into the main inlet. And if that were the case, I think Id rather do that then dedicate a whole vacuum just to keep the bag in my dust collectors dust bin pressed against the bin. There just has to be a simpler way.
    If dedicating $40 for a small shop vac is too expensive, and is not simple, then nirvana is out of reach.
    Mike

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