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Thread: Building Your Own And Improving Upon The Oneida Dust Sentry Bin Level Sensor

  1. #76
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    Thanks Ben!
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #77
    I love all of the electronic solutions, but since I don't need a crazy alarm, I just added a viewing window (with light) in my bin so I can see how full it it. Video (including some video from inside the bin) on my youtube channel
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZylOB5rZ_NQ&t=17s

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Silver View Post
    I love all of the electronic solutions, but since I don't need a crazy alarm, I just added a viewing window (with light) in my bin so I can see how full it it. Video (including some video from inside the bin) on my youtube channel
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZylOB5rZ_NQ&t=17s
    While certainly an option, the main point of this thread was just to show how/what Onieda used in their setup and how to rebuild it for less money.

    That said putting a window in the drum is great, though I'd imagine it wouldnt work as well if you like to use a bag in your drum for ease of discarding the dust once the bin is full. I really like that feature. Plus I like not having to walk to the dust collector, bending over to look in the bin and regularly check the bin when a simple light I can glance at from anywhere in the room can tell me what the status is.

    That said the lit through method shown in that video does provide a bit of a between the two option and is certainly another route to go. Just seems to me if one is going to go through the process of running wire and a power supply, drill the holes for the lighting and the "window" and install the plastic to seal the viewing holes, why not just spend the extra few bucks and add the one more additional part (the IR sensor) and forget the window all together?
    Last edited by Ben Rivel; 01-19-2018 at 6:44 PM.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  4. #79
    1. I've got my parts ordered for 37.95 (i have a box full of old dc power supplies so no need for one of those)

    2. I have heard complaints about dust interfering with the sensor. Has anyone had this problem? Static? Placement? Material that bin is made of? Can a glass/acrylic/polycarbonate shield be put over the sensor without affecting function?

    3.
    I not only want to reiterate a previous post (pg 2) by Ken Anderson concerning optimal placement: "Oneida installation instructions recommend installing the sensor on the bin lid between 3 and 6 inches from the dust entry hose", but ask "why this placement?" and "what is the best placement?"

    4. I think that if you have line of sight to your collection bin windows are still a very good idea. Windows have no circuitry to fail, whereas this system has three components that could all fail. A 4" disk of 1/8" polycarbonate over a three inch hole pop riveted into place and made air tight with a little silicone or polyurethane sealant. We go through a lot of trouble to do dust collection right and windows simply add more assurance.

    5. Thanks all!



  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Rivers View Post

    1. I've got my parts ordered for 37.95 (i have a box full of old dc power supplies so no need for one of those)

    2. I have heard complaints about dust interfering with the sensor. Has anyone had this problem? Static? Placement? Material that bin is made of? Can a glass/acrylic/polycarbonate shield be put over the sensor without affecting function?
    Static, humidity, moisture content of the wood (dust) can all be problems. If the airspeed in the cyclone is adequate, none of this is a problem. Wouldn't a shield have the same problem?

    3. I not only want to reiterate a previous post (pg 2) by Ken Anderson concerning optimal placement: "Oneida installation instructions recommend installing the sensor on the bin lid between 3 and 6 inches from the dust entry hose", but ask "why this placement?" and "what is the best placement?"
    Mounting the sensor on the lid allows you to select the point (height of dust) at which the alarm triggers. You don't want the bin to fill completely- makes it difficult to dump and if the dust is too high there is more of a chance it will be re-agitated, picked up, and pass through the cyclone to the filter.

    4. I think that if you have line of sight to your collection bin windows are still a very good idea. Windows have no circuitry to fail, whereas this system has three components that could all fail. A 4" disk of 1/8" polycarbonate over a three inch hole pop riveted into place and made air tight with a little silicone or polyurethane sealant. We go through a lot of trouble to do dust collection right and windows simply add more assurance.

    5. Thanks all!
    ONLY if you have line of sight and continuously monitor dust level. I personally do not want to take my eyes off what I am doing!! My cyclone is located in my garage, below my second story shop. I built and have used a different LED-based system for over 10 years. It is configured to be fail-safe- if any component (power, LED, sensor, circuit, etc. fails, the dust collector turns off.

  6. #81
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    I built a bin sensor and it seems to work very well.

    The only issue I have is that occasionally a large shaving will float by the sensor and trigger the alarm when the bin isn't full. I may make a time delay with a 555 timer to solve that.

    The good part is that my friend hasn't packed my cyclone filter full of chips again..............Rod.

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    I built a bin sensor and it seems to work very well.

    The only issue I have is that occasionally a large shaving will float by the sensor and trigger the alarm when the bin isn't full. I may make a time delay with a 555 timer to solve that.

    The good part is that my friend hasn't packed my cyclone filter full of chips again..............Rod.
    If youre going to go the route of adding additional circuitry, skip the 555 and use a microcontroller. That way you can do a lot more down the line should you want to.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  8. #83
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    Going microcontroller might make the NPN solution more advantageous. Im in just to try that. Thanks for the info everyone.

  9. #84
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    I have a CV1800 on the way. Iím lucky I can press the button on my garage door opener (i.e., an electronics imbecile).
    Are there any simple step-by-step instructions on how to make one of these ? Would be very appreciated.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe O'Leary View Post
    I have a CV1800 on the way. I’m lucky I can press the button on my garage door opener (i.e., an electronics imbecile).
    Are there any simple step-by-step instructions on how to make one of these ? Would be very appreciated.
    Just your average Joe you say huh? Just follow the first post. Really cant get any simpler than that, the few wires involved are color coded and a wall wart power supply should be easy enough to find (like this one for example: LINK). The links I supplied should make it easier to find compatible parts.
    Last edited by Ben Rivel; 08-16-2018 at 1:04 AM.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  11. #86
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    Ok, Iíll give it a try. Questions WILL be coming.
    Hope you are ok with the fires out there.

  12. #87
    Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread! I love the DIY solutions to over-priced commercial products. Things like the overpriced sensor and $150 "mobility kits" annoy me. Glad to have a good solution for the DIY crowd.

  13. #88
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    So where can I get a "QS18VP6D" on the cheap without having to wait for it to be delivered from overseas?

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Curtis View Post
    So where can I get a "QS18VP6D" on the cheap without having to wait for it to be delivered from overseas?
    Cant. At least not that I have found. You buy locally you get ripped of. You buy from the country of manufacture, you get it for a "fair" price.

    LINK Thats about the cheapest I currently see from a US seller and thats still twice the price of getting it from china.
    Last edited by Ben Rivel; 08-26-2018 at 12:52 PM.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Cant. At least not that I have found. You buy locally you get ripped of. You buy from the country of manufacture, you get it for a "fair" price.

    LINK Thats about the cheapest I currently see from a US seller and thats still twice the price of getting it from china.
    The U.S. seller in the link will not ship to my APO address, but all of the vendors in China and Taiwan will. I ordered a set of digital ammeters from a vendor in China and it arrived at my APO address in about two weeks. The world is getting smaller.

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