Page 8 of 10 FirstFirst ... 45678910 LastLast
Results 106 to 120 of 144

Thread: Building Your Own And Improving Upon The Oneida Dust Sentry Bin Level Sensor

  1. #106
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Is that a DC bulb youre using? And what is its current draw? Also is nothing connected to the beige wire coming from the sensor? Hard to tell from the pics.
    Here is the light. Wolo (3105-B) Beacon Light Rotating Emergency Warning Light - 12 Volt, Blue Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKTW0..._ILU3BbW9XZXNB

    Nothing is connected to white wire.

  2. #107
    why not use this sensor? It is cheaper and might be my option once I have exhausted all others to get my current sensor working.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MU23QO...v_ov_lig_dp_it

  3. #108
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Curtis View Post
    Here is the light. Wolo (3105-B) Beacon Light Rotating Emergency Warning Light - 12 Volt, Blue Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKTW0..._ILU3BbW9XZXNB

    Nothing is connected to white wire.
    Current draw from the bulb used in that beacon is 7.54W at 13V (LINK). At 12V by my calculations that means 628mA current draw. As I mentioned in the first post the max current draw on the output of the Banner sensor is 120mA. So thats one problem.

    Second, I asked if anything was connected to the BEIGE wire. I couldnt really tell for sure from the images you posted. And thats good with the white wire, nothing should be connected there.

    My suggestion, pick up one of the recommended lights I used in the OP. They are available in blue as well if thats what you like. Use the link I posted in the OP.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  4. #109
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Curtis View Post
    why not use this sensor? It is cheaper and might be my option once I have exhausted all others to get my current sensor working.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MU23QO...v_ov_lig_dp_it
    There are literally thousands of sensors one can use to get this job done. And a ton of fancier ways to do it. Only reason the Banner sensor was even mentioned is because thats what was used in the Oneida kit.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  5. #110
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Current draw from the bulb used in that beacon is 7.54W at 13V (LINK). At 12V by my calculations that means 628mA current draw. As I mentioned in the first post the max current draw on the output of the Banner sensor is 120mA. So thats one problem.

    Second, I asked if anything was connected to the BEIGE wire. I couldnt really tell for sure from the images you posted. And thats good with the white wire, nothing should be connected there.

    My suggestion, pick up one of the recommended lights I used in the OP. They are available in blue as well if thats what you like. Use the link I posted in the OP.
    So if by "beige" you mean brown, it is connected to the power supply.

    Are you saying I need a larger power supply?

  6. #111
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Curtis View Post
    So if by "beige" you mean brown, it is connected to the power supply.

    Are you saying I need a larger power supply?
    Larger power supply will not help. That light/strobe you are using is, from my understanding, drawing more current than the transistor in the banner sensor can sustain providing. You need a MUCH lower current draw light, like the one I posted and Oneida uses, or you need to come up with a different/additional circuit to have the Banner output trigger and that can handle powering the larger load.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  7. #112
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
    Posts
    2,387
    Yup, it is either causing the transistor (NPN or PNP) switch in the Banner to temporarily fail or you have already smoked it. I had to take the same care when I built my DC autogates. Since I trigger/power the solenoid air valves directly, I needed current sensor switches that had transistor switches rated for the solenoid coil current draw at the supply voltage.

  8. #113
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Schaffter View Post
    Yup, it is either causing the transistor (NPN or PNP) switch in the Banner to temporarily fail or you have already smoked it.
    Exactly. Thats along the lines of that I was thinkin'.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  9. Thanks for all the hard work you have put into this project. I just ordered the sensor from China for $20 along with the recommended strobe. I will be hooking this up to a CV1800 that will hopefully be winging its way to me shortly.

    As I understand it, the CV1800 comes with a 110v relay/contactor (I did not buy their electrical box). What would be a suitable solution to wire this such that the sensor will shut off the DC? Could I use a 12V relay to control the 110V circuit that drives the contactor for the 220 circuit? That seems a little 'clunky'. I would also like to incorporate a remote start feature.

    Thanks!

  10. #115
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Abilene, TX
    Posts
    109
    Christopher,

    The photo of the power cube is a little blurry, Does that power cube out put AC voltage or DC voltage?
    I have the same unit and used a Direct Current power Supply. This maybe your problem if it is Alternating current.
    on one of my setups(Dust collectors) I used a Harbor Freight free Led Light as the signal device and an old smoke detector for the audible alarm.
    The mods to the HF light is on this thread or the other DC thread.

    Lane

  11. #116
    I have finally given up on using the banner sensor. It has not worked from the start. I have contacted banner and the eBay seller with no results. I will update on my now sensor when I get it. It is only $14 off Amazon.

  12. #117
    My Banner sensor worked fine during setup and testing and did not detect a full blockage. Looking for another sensor.

  13. #118
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    I installed the Oneida stock sensor for a friend and was not happy with it. Seemed as though the sensor would trip fine dust and would go off unless the adjustment was set to about 3”. What are the other sensor options? I’ll be installing on a CV1800 with electrical box in the next couple months. I’ll do some homework on the CV forum too. Nice work everyone!

  14. #119
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Maynard, MA
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    I installed the Oneida stock sensor for a friend and was not happy with it. Seemed as though the sensor would trip fine dust and would go off unless the adjustment was set to about 3”. What are the other sensor options? I’ll be installing on a CV1800 with electrical box in the next couple months. I’ll do some homework on the CV forum too. Nice work everyone!
    Just read from Ben's first post. It's all there.

  15. #120
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    I thought i did. I read rumblings of a sensor that could tie into the CV1800 cyclone to turn it off. I’ll go through it again.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •