I agree, I very seldom use breadboard ends for this reason.
I agree, I very seldom use breadboard ends for this reason.
FIWW had an article in where the table top was split and pinned at the ends of the breadboards so the top expanded and contract toward the middle keeping the bread boards flush at the ends.
My woodworking theory: Measure with a micrometer, Mark with chalk, Cut with an ax.
Bryan....I am about ready to skip the breadboard ends and simply go with the planks end to end. But this sounds like it might be at least worth a look. Is there any way you could direct me to an online link to the article? Of was it just recently? I have been getting that mag for a little while.
There's one in every crowd......and it's usually me!
One item of note is that A&C furniture is often made from quarter sawn white oak, which will have almost no change in width with moisture changes, thickness is a different matter hower the table and breadboard end will change at the same rate.
The above doesn't apply for flat sawn wood..........Regards, Rod.
I'm sure you've already though about this I will make a mention just in case. Some poplars can have a very distinct green tone to many of the boards that will probably turn to brown over the years. This may make your job of board selection or staining/finishing more difficult if you expect even tones across the table. I would choose boads that have no green color if it were me because I'm not good at toning.
"One item of note is that A&C furniture is often made from quarter sawn white oak, which will have almost no change in width with moisture changes."
According to the Woodweb shrinkulator the calculated width change between 6 and 10% MC over 42" is about 5/16". Not a lot, but certainly perceptible to the client (+/- 1/16" at each end of the breadboard cleat).