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Thread: Some help with poplar stability?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Coastal Southern Maine
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    I agree, I very seldom use breadboard ends for this reason.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Fargo North Dakota
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    FIWW had an article in where the table top was split and pinned at the ends of the breadboards so the top expanded and contract toward the middle keeping the bread boards flush at the ends.
    My woodworking theory: Measure with a micrometer, Mark with chalk, Cut with an ax.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Cramer View Post
    FIWW had an article in where the table top was split and pinned at the ends of the breadboards so the top expanded and contract toward the middle keeping the bread boards flush at the ends.
    Bryan....I am about ready to skip the breadboard ends and simply go with the planks end to end. But this sounds like it might be at least worth a look. Is there any way you could direct me to an online link to the article? Of was it just recently? I have been getting that mag for a little while.
    There's one in every crowd......and it's usually me!

  4. #19
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    Mar 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Voorhees View Post
    Bryan....I am about ready to skip the breadboard ends and simply go with the planks end to end. But this sounds like it might be at least worth a look. Is there any way you could direct me to an online link to the article? Of was it just recently? I have been getting that mag for a little while.
    It is in FIWW # 187 from 2006 and is called A Fresh Take on Table Tops. The only way to see it is to pay the online membership or purchase a back issue.
    My woodworking theory: Measure with a micrometer, Mark with chalk, Cut with an ax.

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Cramer View Post
    It is in FIWW # 187 from 2006 and is called A Fresh Take on Table Tops. The only way to see it is to pay the online membership or purchase a back issue.
    .....but first check to see whether your public library has it. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that I can get old FWW issues and make myself a copy of whatever I want on my home printer/scanner--for free!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Voorhees View Post
    John, it's coincidental that you should mention that because that was also something I considered doing. Purposely making an overhang that would remain an overhang year round....just sometimes less of an overhang and sometimes more. Certainly much less noticeable than sometimes underhang and sometimes overhang. And this is something else that I may run by them. I really want to do a breadboard end. This is one way that the entire situation could be remedied.
    One item of note is that A&C furniture is often made from quarter sawn white oak, which will have almost no change in width with moisture changes, thickness is a different matter hower the table and breadboard end will change at the same rate.

    The above doesn't apply for flat sawn wood..........Regards, Rod.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Midwest
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    I'm sure you've already though about this I will make a mention just in case. Some poplars can have a very distinct green tone to many of the boards that will probably turn to brown over the years. This may make your job of board selection or staining/finishing more difficult if you expect even tones across the table. I would choose boads that have no green color if it were me because I'm not good at toning.

  8. #23
    "One item of note is that A&C furniture is often made from quarter sawn white oak, which will have almost no change in width with moisture changes."

    According to the Woodweb shrinkulator the calculated width change between 6 and 10% MC over 42" is about 5/16". Not a lot, but certainly perceptible to the client (+/- 1/16" at each end of the breadboard cleat).

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