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Thread: Walnut Restaurant table tops

  1. #1
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    Walnut Restaurant table tops

    I have a job coming up building 36 live edge table tops for a local restaurant. Probably 75% of them will be walnut and the rest hard maple. I built around 15 for the same people about a year ago and the finish I used is starting to chip and flake on some of the tables (1 coat sand and sealer 3 coats Poly). I do not have much experience finishing but I'm looking for a much more durable finish without using epoxy (trying to avoid the cheap plastic look). After doing some research and asking around I discovered penetrating epoxy which I would like to try as a sealer before finishing. Also I found a nice detailed post for the kind of finish I'm looking for which I attached. I have yet to try it but I'm looking for as much information/knowlege as I can get so that I can expeirement with a few finishes. Also I'm very limited on spraying, a hand rubbed or brushed finish would probably be the best route.
    Capture.JPG cozy's 1.JPG
    Last edited by Jeremy Jett; 02-24-2016 at 9:44 AM.

  2. #2
    Which poly did you use?

  3. #3
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    Minwax satin...I read a lot of forums on it and it seems like in the restaurant atmosphere, using wet bleach rags and hot plates on a daily basis just breaks the poly down very quickly.

  4. #4
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    Typical polyurethane varnish isn't going to hold up in an environment like that. Especially "box store" varnish. You need to move to something like a conversion varnish...a "pro" finish...for something like this. Fortunately, there are water borne versions available now that are safe to spray without an incredible investment in personal and environmental safety setups.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Thanks Jim, do you have any recommended brands and/or application processes?

  6. #6
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    Target makes a KCMA approved finish EM 6000 and EM9000 and Sherwin Williams makes my favorite KCMA approve finish: SW Kem-Auqu-Plus. I used the latter on some work I did in 5 different Olive Garden Restaurants. They spec'd it; I had never used it, I have used it for all kitchen jobs since...
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Scott it's always re-assuring when it's been used in a restaurant that gets as much traffic as Olive Garden.

  8. #8
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    Scott, can the regular SW stores supply that Kem-Augu-Plus? I might want to try it. While I love TC finishes, the cost of shipping is considerable, especially when I use so little in a year with my "time constrained project schedule".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    I think it's Kem Aqua Plus.

    The issue is, they offer a bunch of products in this line. Scott, can you confirm it's Kem Aqua Plus CLEAR?

    Jim, any of the SW stores can order it. The Lawrenceville store is listing it for me @ 74/gal, but you have to purchase 5 gallons. If you are up for a trip to Willard Brothers (which is right behind this SW store) I can go dutch with you on 5 gals. My neighbor's bathroom cabinets are finished in this product and I think it looks wonderful.

  10. #10
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    The one I use is Kem Aqua Plus water reducible Clear Dull Rubbed Effect. I don't know if the regular SW stores carry it yet. When I first started to use it; it was Chemical Coating locations only. With my commercial account they have shipped it to my door, with no shipping costs.

    FYI this is a spray only finish.


    It was only available in 5 gallon but I think you can get 1 gallon now.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  11. #11
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    I'd like to try the SW product, too, but it's only available in 5 gal pails where I am, which I can't justify. I don't know if you have ever tried GF's EnduroVar but it is incredibly durable, and you can apply it with a brush or spray it. It goes on great with a brush and sprays beautifully if you have a pressure assisted HVLP gun. It's not cheap, however, at about $84/gal, but I can buy it most times at my local Rocklers, or pay the shipping from Homestead Finishing or Woodworker's Hardware. Surprisingly, sales tax vs shipping cost made it cheapest at Rocklers.

    John

  12. #12
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    I don't have a nice spray set up yet, previously I used a $100 plastic air sprayer from the big box store. I did recently purchase a Grayco Truecoat Pro with fine finish as we are remodeling our house. It says it can be used for spraying finishes but not sure how effective it is?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I
    Jim, any of the SW stores can order it. The Lawrenceville store is listing it for me @ 74/gal, but you have to purchase 5 gallons. If you are up for a trip to Willard Brothers (which is right behind this SW store) I can go dutch with you on 5 gals. My neighbor's bathroom cabinets are finished in this product and I think it looks wonderful.
    We can certainly chat about this for sure and in the worst case, meeting at Willard to fondle the lumber and getting a 'cuppa isn't a horrible idea to do sometime anyway.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
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    Do you have a compressor? The $10 on sale HF purple HVLP spray gun sprays pretty darned well with materials like shellac, lacquer, and other light finishes. With 5 - 10% water added it will spray EnduroVar and similar WB finishes. It will work even with a fairly modest compressor for short periods of time. If your compressor can output about 6 cfm at 40 psi it will spray continuously. Spraying allows you to quickly put down a much more consistent finish with less effort than any other method. It's the only method I would consider for a table top unless I were doing a traditional varnish and rubbing it out.

    John

  15. #15
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    I think I can get that set up pretty easy. Thanks John

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