[OP]
Contributor
I see Lee Valley has an interesting add-on for their bevel-up planes.
From their website;
I'll probably get one of each and try them out.The fine thread on this Norris-style adjuster slows blade advancement, making it easier to set blade projection precisely. An easy retrofit for our bevel-up planes, it simply replaces the regular adjuster supplied with your plane. Made in Canada from stainless steel
slow_adjuster.jpg
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Member
They offer a similar adjuster for their custom bevel-down line as well. I tried one on my #4 for a while and didn't find it to be much of an improvement. I put the original one (which I'm quite happy with) back on.Originally Posted by Hilton Ralphs
Contributor
It is amazing how fine of an adjuster can be made for a plane.
Yet my planes seem to work okay for me with the backlash handicapped adjustment mechanism of Bailey fame.
If it is more enjoyable for the user, then it is worth the price.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
Thanks Hilton. I hadn't seen these.
Fred
Friend of the Creek
Thanks! Please let us know what you think once you try them out.
I noticed the extra fine adjusters for the custom planes but did not know they were available for the BU planes, Good to know. Will be good to hear more opinions on these.
I have been reading old posts searching for information on bevel/frog angles for smoothing planes. I see some older posts, by SMC posters with BU planes, which explain that at least some users find they can adjust depth of cut on the fly. Conventional wisdom seems to suggest that depth adjustment on the fly is a unique feature of the Stanley type planes. I usually stop to adjust depth with Veritas BU planes, but with the side screw holding the iron in place I am wondering if the BU planes might be just as easy to adjust for depth, or easier with an extra fine adjustment?
Contributor
Mike, I have no difficulty adjusting BU planes on the fly. It is only difficult if you over tighten the lever cap.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Friend of the Creek
+1 what Derek said. Admittedly though I have a habit of over tightening...need to work on that.
Member
IMO "no adjuster" also works pretty well :-).
Contributor
+2. Me either.
Nice, thanks for the input guys. I will practice keeping the lever cap looser. This seems to be the same thing I have been experiencing with trying to adjust my old Bailey/Stanley planes to adjust on the fly, so it certainly makes sense. In the case of the Stanley planes though there is a screw and a lever cap both of which need to be loose enough to allow adjustment.
So is anyone else using the fine adjusters, Hilton mentions, for either BU or BD Veritas planes? I have noticed that depth adjustment on Veritas BU planes seems much more sensitive than on Stanley type planes. The Stanley planes may even take a turn or two to get them to start registering on the blade. All my experience is with Veritas BU/LA planes so I have no idea about their new custom planes.
I have a hard time seeing very small protruding edges, especially if the light isn't just right. So being able to adjust via the shavings, on the fly has a good deal of appeal.
Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 02-21-2016 at 7:54 AM.
Member
Put a little wax on the top surface of your chip breaker. Then,with careful attention to the amount you tighten the lever cap,adjusting on the fly will be a LOT easier.
Great tip George! I will give that a try here shortly. I think you are talking about the Bailey/Stanley planes, particularly the old ones, although I imagine this is good general advise. My old Stanley's parts go through an Evapo Rust bath. I use a little Camellia oil on them afterwards but I have been afraid of WD-40 and penetrating oils due to allergic skin reactions on my hands. Wax is a great idea.
Probably would help to wax a few of my squeaky old parts while I am at it.
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