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Thread: New Cabinet Saw Recommendation

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    Be very careful of this saw. Not good for ripping solids.
    Please explain why not.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Please explain why not.
    We had the saw at Blystone Cabinets in Buckner Missouri. Wasn't designed for hardwoods and we ended up cutting hardwoods on a separate saw. Last I heard it was sitting inside a horse trailer rusting. Now that was an American version with a 5/8 arbor. I actually tried to buy the saw for panel cutting but the used price was too high....

    The newer version you are looking at is the same version but one really needs to focus on how it will be used.....

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    We had the saw at Blystone Cabinets in Buckner Missouri. Wasn't designed for hardwoods and we ended up cutting hardwoods on a separate saw. Last I heard it was sitting inside a horse trailer rusting. Now that was an American version with a 5/8 arbor. I actually tried to buy the saw for panel cutting but the used price was too high....

    The newer version you are looking at is the same version but one really needs to focus on how it will be used.....
    I don't follow, exactly what was the problem ripping solid wood?
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  4. #49
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    It was not suggested when purchased. Wasn't designed for that purpose. If it's an 40 hr a week saw one might want to look into a saw to rip and use the minimax for it's intended purpose...

  5. #50
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    A short stroke slider that still has the front of the slider sticking out in front of the fixed table but isn't long enough to use the slider for ripping is harder to get used to. A slider excels in ripping when the table is long enough to rip from the left. A mid stroke is a compromise when ripping. The old short stroke sliders looked just like a fixed saw when the table was locked and ripped just like them.DSCN2883.jpg Dave

  6. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Please explain why not.
    well first off that saw is 6k + shipping

    short stroke sliders don't replace cabinet saws or do anything better then they do, but they have a fancy crosscut fence.

    the rip fence on sliders are great for nothing they are a compromise they do deflect and aren't long enough.

    the slider sits slightly proud of the cast iron so if u rip u will have a slightly angled cut every time.

    on these entry level saws your crosscut fence is going to be out of square anytime u touch it, which is fine if u have 10' stroke and you can leave it on all the time.

    one of the reasons i bought a slider was to be able to do things quicker when I get rough lumber, I just joint a face and dust cut the sides and run it through the planner. i dust cut off a parallel fence not the rip i only use the rip fence as stop for crosscutting.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T gray View Post
    well first off that saw is 6k + shipping

    short stroke sliders don't replace cabinet saws or do anything better then they do, but they have a fancy crosscut fence.

    the rip fence on sliders are great for nothing they are a compromise they do deflect and aren't long enough.

    the slider sits slightly proud of the cast iron so if u rip u will have a slightly angled cut every time.

    on these entry level saws your crosscut fence is going to be out of square anytime u touch it, which is fine if u have 10' stroke and you can leave it on all the time.

    one of the reasons i bought a slider was to be able to do things quicker when I get rough lumber, I just joint a face and dust cut the sides and run it through the planner. i dust cut off a parallel fence not the rip i only use the rip fence as stop for crosscutting.
    Really? I haven't had any of those problems with my K3 Hammer. I rip all the time on the sliding table and use the rip fence as a stop to do so just as you do. I hardly ever use the rip fence except of course for longer lengths but most of my work can be ripped on the sliding table. With the built in stops the cross cut fence can be removed and replaced at any time with no tolerance problems at all. Why use a parallel fence when the F&F method does a quicker and better job in most cases? The rip fence does not need to go forward of the leading edge of the blade and mine certainly does not deflect. What brand of saw are you using?
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    Be very careful of this saw. Not good for ripping solids.
    How's that? I have an SC2 and have never had an issue ripping solid wood with it either using a Fritz & Franz setup, the ripping shoe and clamp or against the fence.

  9. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    We had the saw at Blystone Cabinets in Buckner Missouri. Wasn't designed for hardwoods and we ended up cutting hardwoods on a separate saw. Last I heard it was sitting inside a horse trailer rusting. Now that was an American version with a 5/8 arbor. I actually tried to buy the saw for panel cutting but the used price was too high....

    The newer version you are looking at is the same version but one really needs to focus on how it will be used.....
    Donald Trumpism

  10. #55
    David, what kind of slider do you have? Have not noticed any of the complaints you wrote of on my Hammer. And a 79" stroke is just about long enough to rip any project for me. And the angle? from the sliding table sitting proud of the table? Not noticeable on mine. It does sit up just barely.

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