[OP]
Contributor
I'm in the market for a new cabinet saw and would appreciate some suggestions on what to buy. My previous saw was a Delta Unisaw that was probably made 15 years ago. First of all, what cabinet saws have non-proprietary motors for cost effective replacement if necessary?
Member
Not to open the can of worms (though Im sure itll come to that) but many would tell you that if they were buying again today, without question they would get a SawStop. But then many would tell you they wouldnt. Im in the SawStop camp and bought a PCS 3HP 36" as my first table saw. I highly recommend you give them a strong consideration, not just for the safety feature but also for the fit, finish, customer support and over all quality of their products.
If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!
As Ben points out Steve, if you do a search here on cabinet saw, new tablesaw, etc. you will see that the recommendations run the gamut. To keep this from becoming a runaway train I would adds to your 'replaceable motor' parameter things like budget, shop foot print, dust collections, brand preferences, format preferences or anything else you can think of to corral the discussion a bit and make it more useful to you.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
Steve, in my opinion the only new cabinet saw worth buying is the Sawstop, due to the safety feature.
That said, I went away from a cabinet 6 years ago to a small Hammer sliding saw and I would never go back to a cabinet saw again.
As to motor replacement, I've never done that in a home shop in 35 years.................Regards, Rod.
Contributor
What is your price limit?
No use making recommendations if the saws will be outside of how much you want to or can afford to spend.
Agree with others 'bout a SawStop.
Guest
What's your budget?
Is quality important?
Why new? If you can accommodate it, some of the old Northfield, Tannewitz, and Oliver saws are bullet proof and can be had for a song on the used market and will bury anything made currently as far as quality goes. (Northfield is still producing equipment though. I think a new #4 is ~$15k retail)
There's everything for everyone out there.
If you're planning on sticking flesh into the blade, you're screwed and will have to purchase a Sawstop.
[OP]
Contributor
My absolute budget limit is $4k but would prefer to keep it at around $3k. I mentioned at the top about a non-proprietary motor because I once had a Jet cabinet saw that required a motor replacement and it bothered me that it had to come from Jet. The SawStop safety features are interesting but based on what I've read so far most of the other major cabinet saws have the same features with the exception of the blade stop. I'm extremely cautious around power equipment so the blade stop isn't that appealing to me. Yes, I realize the unexpected accidents can happen but I feel comfortable with keeping myself out of trouble. I think in a high school shop setting the SawStop is a no brainer. Quality of build is probably the feature that I would appreciate most and would spend a little more for it. It isn't that important to me that the dust collection be the best available. The saw just need to have a port to hook up to my large vacuum system and do a reasonable job. The old Northfield, Tannewitz, and Oliver saws seem like a good option but finding one in my rural setting may be a chore.
Member
Riving knives are sweet to have. $3k-$4K will buy just about any 10" cabinet saw for sure. Any interest in a sliding table saw if you are spending that much money? There are some smaller ones out there if space is an issue.
If quality of build is important and you are going only cabinet saw i would not count sawstop out even if you don't think the brake is important. There is not a north american 10" style cabinet saw Id trade my ICS for. Although it prob fails your non propietary clause but heck if the motor went out I bet there is a serious chance sawstop would send you another without hesitation and cheaply or free. Their CS is amazing.
Last edited by Mike Heidrick; 02-16-2016 at 5:42 PM.
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
Member
I don't know if it was supposed to be but I thought that comment was really funny. This is coming from a person who has used a table saw for over 30 years without injury. Most of that time, the saw didn't even have a blade guard on and never a riving knife. I have experienced a few non destructive kick backs over the years. That is one reason I just bought a new Grizzly with a riving knife.Originally Posted by Martin Wasner
Member
For a little more than a SawStop. you can get something like this.
Screen Shot 2016-02-16 at 2.59.35 PM.jpg
Member
Right after I ordered my Hammer new, I was looking at the classifieds on this forum, as well as woodweb, and found combo machines for about the same money, and used saws just about exactly like the one I had on order for half. Hobby use machines.
Member
There are third party motors available for the Unisaw, you don't have to buy a Delta. The Unisaw of 15 years ago is just as good as modern table saws with two exceptions--the riving knife now required, and the SawStop. Shoot,my 1946 Unisaw is equivalent to contemporary cabinet saws, with those exceptions. The other alternative that's significantly different is the European sliding table saw which has its own safety advantages. But I wouldn't trade my old Unisaw for other brands of cabinet saws, except perhaps for Saw Stop, though I'm not willing to pay for that.
Contributor
I recently picked up a 36 inch PCS SawStop and absolutely love it. Occasionally I wish I had the 52 inch model, but my garage just doesn't have the space. The ICS base is amazing, I can roll the saw around my shop with one finger.
I watch Frank Howarth's channel on YouTube and immediately get jealous of the extra table space his Powermatic 72 has, but it also runs a 1 inch arbor and weighs ~1000 lbs. I just can't fit that in my space. The extra front table space is very nice though.
If money and space were no object I'd pick up the ICS with 5hp motor - but I don't think you can go wrong with the 3hp PCS. The only other saw I seriously considered was the PM2000, but it was within $100 of the PCS (similarly equipped) and doesn't have the stop feature.
Member
go to most woodworking tool retailers and ask what they sell the most of it runs mostly sawstops now
Member
Former Unisaw owner, now Sawstopper... love the dust collection design, built in splitter/riving knife and general quality of the tool. Loved my Unisaw too, but it wasn't/isn't as usable as the SS. Agree that you should look at the sliders, though - crosscutting is a big part of cabinet work and sliders add their own serious value to the safety equation.
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