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Thread: 6" dia blade on a SawStop?

  1. #1
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    6" dia blade on a SawStop?

    I want to get an ultra thin kerf (0.023") blade for slotting fretboards on my table saw. The only blades I have seen are 6" in diameter, and I think 8" is the minimum diameter they make a brake for on the SawStop. Does anyone know a way to run a smaller blade on this machine?
    Thanks
    Scott

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott DelPorte View Post
    I want to get an ultra thin kerf (0.023") blade for slotting fretboards on my table saw. The only blades I have seen are 6" in diameter, and I think 8" is the minimum diameter they make a brake for on the SawStop. Does anyone know a way to run a smaller blade on this machine?
    Thanks
    Scott
    When I asked about running a 7 1/4" blade, I was told:
    Our saw accommodates 8" and 10" blades, nothing smaller. Even to bypass the safety feature, you must have the proper cartridge in place, so the smallest is 8"

  3. #3
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    If you are willing to disable the brake, you can fool it into thinking that the brake is aligned to the blade. Basically, screw a piece of aluminum bar to the brake cartridge that extends up near the blade. Obviously, you are doing this at your own risk. I only have one table saw and need to run a Magic Moulder head from time to time. This is the only way I could come up with to make it work short of digging into the electronics.
    JR

  4. #4
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    Thanks JR. That is really helpful, and I'm aware that I'm assuming added risk here.

    Since the slots are only 1/8" deep and .023" wide, and I would be using a crosscut sled, it seems acceptable to me.

  5. #5
    J.R.'s tip can be accomplished using a flexible piece of wire. Simply wrap it around the brake, then adjust it to come within proper distance to your blade.

  6. #6
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    I am afraid, very very afraid, especially when I start thinking about a piece of wire just kind of hanging out there. A chip comes flying down, hits the wire, it bumps the blade..... shudder!

  7. #7
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    I used a 12 ga solid wire originally, but started to get worried about it wrapping up in the cutter.
    JR

  8. #8
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    If you've got mad electrical skills, you could wire in a bypass switch that temporarily lobotomizes the saw. That is, completely disconnects the electronics & just uses the contactor to control the motor. I've thought about doing this to mine because I sometimes have need of using a very thin kerf blade that is less than 8". Haven't needed it since I got the SS though.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    If you've got mad electrical skills, you could wire in a bypass switch that temporarily lobotomizes the saw.
    LOL good choice of words!
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  10. #10
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    This is just one reason I kept my Unisaw when I got the SS. I am fortunate to have room for both, and use it for dado's mostly. Amazing how often I use a dado now that I can leave it on the saw.

    Haven't done it yet, but I plan to get a Freud skillsaw blade for making narrow kerf cuts to make inlay ribbon. I need to make a very narrow splitter first for safety.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  11. #11
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    Forrest will grind a blade of any size for you and may even have 10"/8" blade with such a thin kerf already in stock. Check out their site. It won't be quite as cheap as a piece of wire but you won't be bypassing the safety features of the saw either.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by J.R. Rutter View Post
    If you are willing to disable the brake, you can fool it into thinking that the brake is aligned to the blade. Basically, screw a piece of aluminum bar to the brake cartridge that extends up near the blade. Obviously, you are doing this at your own risk. I only have one table saw and need to run a Magic Moulder head from time to time. This is the only way I could come up with to make it work short of digging into the electronics.
    Hello JR. I am stuck with a 6" .023" kerf blade and only a SawStop in my shop now to cut fret slots. Are you still running a SawStop with an aluminum bar screwed to it to fool the system? Could you explain in more detail how you screwed the aluminum bar to the brake? A photo would be excellent!
    Thanks...
    Peter

  13. #13
    I asked Forrest about grinding a thin kerf blade for fret slotting on a SawStop. They do not do this, and I was referred to Super Thin Saws in Vermont.www.superthinsaws.com
    Looks like an expensive proposition for a single blade, but I will hear more on Monday.


  14. #14
    Buy a cheap job site saw and do it with that.

  15. #15
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    The blade at such a large diameter compared to the required .023" kerf for fretwork means the custom blade has to be made of thicker stock so it doesn't wobbl/deflect like a drunk goose with only the area out at the kerf slimmed down for the intended work. Depth of cut isn't usually more than about 2mm. Off the shelf circular blades for this work are often used with small "radial arm" type saws so the platter can be small.

    I'm very glad to have the CNC to do this work!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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