Is face frame always proud of the case?

[Mike Dowell]

I'm going to be building (2) hutches for my dining room and I've got a question about the design aspect.

These will be 40" wide and 7' tall. I'm going to make them a two piece design where the top sits on the bottom via dowels(unless you all have a better idea). The bottom will have two doors and two drawers, followed by a countertop(probably walnut, but I might go cheap and use poplar). The top section will have a cutout at it's bottom with wainscoting backpanel, then two doors, and inside will be 2 shelves. Top section is 10" deep and the bottom is 17" deep.

I'm planning on making the case and shelves out of 3/4" finish plywood, then doing a face frame, and the doors will be rail and stile. Kinda, sorta, generally speaking in a round a bout way like this.
DISTRESS_CABINET_PAINTED_CABINET_COUNTRY_HUTCH_RUSTIC.jpg

My question is about the face frames. Do face frames generally extend beyond the case about an 1/8"? It seems to me that they do in most designs, but I wanted to ask here.

[Dave Richards]

It's fairly common to set the face frame stiles slightly proud of the outside of the case but it doesn't always have to be done that way. You need to consider what happens at those corners if you put a molding around the bottom of the sides which is also common.

[Von Bickley]

I leave my face frames flush with the cabinet.

[Jamie Buxton]

I make them flush. If they overhang, they look to me like the builder was inaccurate or lazy.

[Larry Browning]

My opinion is the reason you see the face frame mounted that way is for mass production. That way it does not have to be sanded of planed perfectly flush which will save a step or 2. I always make mine flush. I think it looks better and is a sign of higher quality.

[Jerry Miner]

+1 what they said^^

I build custom cabinets for a living. Exposed ends are always finished flush. Larry is exactly right---in mass-produced cabinets, there is a cost savings in leaving the face frame proud. To me, it screams "production" (i.e. factory-produced) vs. "custom" (craftsman-produced).

[Lee Schierer]

I leave mine flush with the cabinet sides. When in doubt visit a local furniture shop and see how the commercial people do it.

[Brian Holcombe]

Is frame and panel an option?

[Jerry Miner]

Is frame and panel an option?

What difference would that make?

[Mike Dowell]

I'll go flush. That seems legit to me. I'm supposing you just make it 1/32" proud and sand it flush? I can't imagine building this with such precision that it worked out perfectly any other way.

[Dan Hahr]

I would place the face frame within the sides. I would set the face frame back an eighth at the most. I would want the sides to be substantial, say at least 1 inch thick or better.

When I built mine, I made the sides about 1.125" and inset the doors without a face frame. It looks much cleaner this way, but there is nothing wrong with using a face frame.

Dan

[Mark Blatter]

I'll go flush. That seems legit to me. I'm supposing you just make it 1/32" proud and sand it flush? I can't imagine building this with such precision that it worked out perfectly any other way.

I always build mine about 1/16 - 3/32" proud on both sides, then use a flush trim router bit to finish them off smooth. A little sanding and they are done. Trying to sand even a 1/32" for me, invites sand through on the plywood.

Its funny. I built one almost just like that a year ago. I used Pacific Coast Maple for the counter top with just a glaze finish. The rest was all painted using a lacquer based paint. I would not use poplar for the counter top as it is just too soft. It will dent and scratch so fast you will cuss it for a long time.

[Jerry Miner]

I'm supposing you just make it 1/32" proud and sand it flush?

Yes. Flush-trim router if it helps. Then sand.

[Brian Holcombe]

What difference would that make?

Pardon me?

[Larry Browning]

Is frame and panel an option?

Could you elaborate on this a little? I do not know what this has to do with the OP's question.