Oklahoma Homestead 40x80x12

[Jefferey Scott]

To go with the metal ceiling panels, we chose to use 2 inch angle iron to bridge the gap between the wall and ceiling. This was a quick and relatively inexpensive way to finish this piece of the project off. We decided to leave the metal natural and not paint it or otherwise treat it. Except in the bathroom, where moisture in the air would prematurely rust it. I applied several clear enamel coats out of a spray can. We don’t necessarily care or worry about the metal getting a patina or even some light rust as it ages, that’s the beauty of modern industrial architecture.
Another advantage over a wood molding is that metal comes in 20 ft or longer lengths. Wood comes in 16 ft maximum lengths. With the longer metal, there is no splicing of molding in the middle of the room. The metal also gave us a space to pack in rubber and foam insulation to close the air gap in the seam between the wall and ceiling.

Not to disappoint our wood fans, all the rest of the molding will be rough cedar, I'm just going to nail it up and call it good.
Here are some pictures of the process:

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[Jim Becker]

The angle iron trim makes for a very interesting look that's in-tune with things!

[Jefferey Scott]

It certainly is not "traditional". We wanted something a bit different, and I think you're right, it's right in-tune with the theme. Thanks for checking in!

[Jefferey Scott]

The Shouse or apartment area of the barn is now done minus a few punch list minor items. The septic system was installed yesterday and we now have indoor plumbing and that is a God send. We will be moving in and living full time in a couple of weeks.

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[Jim Becker]

Congratulations, Jeff!! It will be nice for you to be living on-site going forward for sure. 'Looking forward to seeing things "get cozy" and your ability to start focusing on the shop side of things!

[Jefferey Scott]

Congratulations, Jeff!! It will be nice for you to be living on-site going forward for sure. 'Looking forward to seeing things "get cozy" and your ability to start focusing on the shop side of things!

Yes sir! Now the REAL fun begins as my focus turns to the shop and getting it 1) Organized 2) Rearranged 3) Interior walls framed 4) Interior walls covered. Also a plethora of electric run and some more lights and fans up. This will take the better part of six months to a year, as budget was blown on the apartment, but we'll get there!

Thanks for checking in Jim!

[Jim Becker]

Take your time on this next phase and very carefully think through workflow, including leaving space OPEN for flexible usage. (assembly, finishing, temp storage) You have a totally blank slate here to work with...and most of us would "kill" for that!

[Jefferey Scott]

Take your time on this next phase and very carefully think through workflow, including leaving space OPEN for flexible usage. (assembly, finishing, temp storage) You have a totally blank slate here to work with...and most of us would "kill" for that!

Will do, good suggestions. The remaining 2700 sq ft will be divided up with 800 sq ft going to metal shop and 1900 sq ft going to the woodshop and general usage area. I'm going to wall off the metal shop to a degree to try to keep that grunge away from the wood side. This is the fun part of the build now. I'm looking forward to it!

[Jim Becker]

April Wilkerson did the same kind of division between the wood and metal sides of her new shop building. I think that's a good idea, not just because of the "grunge", but because it's an extra barrier against sparks getting to ignitable materials like dust and chips.

[Jefferey Scott]

April Wilkerson did the same kind of division between the wood and metal sides of her new shop building. I think that's a good idea, not just because of the "grunge", but because it's an extra barrier against sparks getting to ignitable materials like dust and chips.

Good point Jim. I am embarking on another shop project in the barn. I've wanted to build a storage loft for seasonal stuff and housewares we don't have room for yet. I also would like to have a dedicated paint/spray room. I decided to combine both ideas and build a 12 x 16 traditionally constructed room that has a 7 ft ceiling. On top of the ceiling will be a platform for storage. I'll use 2x8x12 rafters on the room and sheath the upper floor with OSB.

The paint room itself I'm planning to build with 2x4's 24 oc and sheath with drywall inside and outside the room. I'm hoping to get it sealed up good to reduce the amount of vapor or overspray outside the room. It will encompass one of the 3x5 windows in the barn, so there will be ventilation and the ability to put a fan in the window to draw out overspray and fumes.

The ceiling is kinda low, but it will primarily be used to finish furniture and metal fab pieces, so that's not a huge deal to me. I'm on a budget, so it's got to come in under 1k, I think I can do it for $800.

Any thoughts or tips from the group?

Here's a very basic floorplan of the shop areas:

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[Jim Becker]

Ventilation for your finish room has to be done correctly, especially if you will be working with solvent-based products, both because of VOC and because of flammability. Don't assume a simple window fan is going to do the job...it will not. Other than that, you will enjoy having a dedicated finishing space for sure!

[Jefferey Scott]

Ventilation for your finish room has to be done correctly, especially if you will be working with solvent-based products, both because of VOC and because of flammability. Don't assume a simple window fan is going to do the job...it will not. Other than that, you will enjoy having a dedicated finishing space for sure!

Agree on the fan, looking at options for explosion proof models. Also looking at ventilation design. I've got an exterior wall I can modify, should the window not be the best route. For the interim, rustoleum oil based is about as caustic a finish that I use. I mostly shoot water based products on all my furniture. (I like Target Coatings).

[Peter Christensen]

Unless there is a reason I don't see like electrical or other utility access in that corner, my sugestion would be to move it to the bottom right corner in the drawing. Mainly because you only have to build 2 walls, saving on some materials.

[Jefferey Scott]

Unless there is a reason I don't see like electrical or other utility access in that corner, my sugestion would be to move it to the bottom right corner in the drawing. Mainly because you only have to build 2 walls, saving on some materials.

Hi Peter,

That corner of the shop will be the Metal fab area. I'd like to shy away from that end of the barn because it gets pretty dirty down there. I will also have some 220v circuits down in that corner for the welders and plasma cutter. Its a good idea, I give you that. I also have the service panel in the middle of the back wall, which is dictating the paint booth be off center and more towards the far end of the Wood shop. Not the most ideal place, but no floor space will go unused, I guarantee that.

[Jefferey Scott]

Hi guys,

I finally got my tools unpacked and things setup in the shop enough to make it functional. This is the initial setup. I have lots of electric to run still. I have many more lights to wire up and hang still, but at least I can get some work done now in an organized fashion. In Feb-March, I will be framing out the interior walls and covering them with barn metal, much like the paint room you can see in the pictures. The Woodshop is 1920 sq ft or 48 x 40, minus the paint room which is 200 sq ft. The metal shop is 800 sq ft or 20 x 40. Here's a few shots of where it stands right now:

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