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Thread: Oklahoma Homestead 40x80x12

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    853
    I hope you bolted those shelves down to the floor or to the walls so they do not tip over. Your shop looks great.
    Bill D

  2. #152
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    I hope you bolted those shelves down to the floor or to the walls so they do not tip over. Your shop looks great.
    Bill D

    Hi Bill,

    The shelves are where they are temporarily. When I get the interior wall sheathing on, they will move up against the walls in various locations. So they are not anchored yet.

    Thanks

    Jeff
    Jeff

  3. #153

    Tiny Apartment in the Shop

    It started with a trip to Loweís to obtain all of the framing lumber needed for the apartment build out. It took my son and I about 1 1/2 hours to pick and load the pile of wood.

    On Friday November 24th I transported the trailer and wood to the shop and unloaded it all by myself. I am very lucky to have help from my sons, but they both have jobs and my youngest goes to school full time, so I have to learn to do by myself. On Saturday I began forming the first stud walls. I made 10 ft sections of wall, which was very manageable size and weight wise. Iím using 3 1/4″ ring shanked collated nails in my Porter Cable framing nailer. They were a left over from my fence project years ago and they should work just fine for this job.

    I decided to build all of my walls outside of the pole barns posts in order to create a straight and plumb framework for the apartment. Iíve learned that my pole barn is a little off with some of the posts warping somewhat and I didnít want to tie into that and have less that perfectly straight walls.

    For all of the window and door openings, I framed the openings to mimic the pole barn framerís rough framing. This way I can trim out the window and door openings with pine boards that straddles their framing and mine too. I will trim out the exterior of the window case work with trim after the drywall is up.

    At this point ending on Sunday November 27th, Iím about 60% done with the framing. I hope to finish it next weekend and move on to rough out the plumbing.

    IMG_1265.jpgIMG_1290.jpgIMG_1291.jpgIMG_1294.jpgIMG_1292.jpgIMG_1282.jpg
    IMG_1285.jpg

    Thanks for looking,

    Jeff
    Last edited by Jefferey Scott; 11-27-2017 at 9:31 AM.
    Jeff

  4. #154

    Framing 90% done

    And the bathtub has been fitted for itís place in the bathroom and the drain has been fitted. Just need a little more pvc to connect it and then Iíll set it in a bed of mud and attach to the walls. The bath drain was probably the hardest drain to hit due to the way it was roughed in, but no big deal.

    The framing pretty much went as planned and i did it all myself except for one wall that my son Mason helped me with while he was bringing me a needed tool.

    IMG_1305.jpgIMG_1304.jpg

    The rafters presented a challenge as they are 12 ft long and i have to mount them 10 ft up in the air. As the pictures below show, I placed one end in the rafter tie, then lifted the opposite end onto the ladder. After that I carefully ascended the ladder and lifted the loose end into its rafter tie and centered the rafter and screwed it off.
    IMG_1310.jpgIMG_1309.jpg

    The rest of the framing went well with no problems. I still have the wet wall between the bathroom and utility room to construct and will do so next. Then Iím going to clad the bath alcove with cement backer board and install the tub.

    Then itís on to rough plumbing!
    IMG_1317.jpgIMG_1316.jpgIMG_1318.jpg
    Jeff

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    43,293
    Nice progress, Jeff. I'm thinking that I would have rented a lift or a helper for those joists, however...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #156
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Nice progress, Jeff. I'm thinking that I would have rented a lift or a helper for those joists, however...
    Thanks Jim! Yes I wish I had a helper, but I'm learning that I have to do by myself if reasonably safe to do so. My wife is a huge help, but she was at work this day. Luckily, rough plumbing is next and that's a one man job
    Jeff

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    43,293
    Oh, I do understand as I often do a lot of my home improvement type work alone. 12' 2x joists would give me pause, however, because they can be relatively "unstable" when you're manipulating just one end at a time. A helper on the other end as you mutually co-walk up a steady stepladder with the board between you would likely be how I would do this kind of thing if a helper was available. It could go really fast, too, if you pre-place your ties so the joists can be set into them quickly on both ends. No matter...just stay safe!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #158
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Oh, I do understand as I often do a lot of my home improvement type work alone. 12' 2x joists would give me pause, however, because they can be relatively "unstable" when you're manipulating just one end at a time. A helper on the other end as you mutually co-walk up a steady stepladder with the board between you would likely be how I would do this kind of thing if a helper was available. It could go really fast, too, if you pre-place your ties so the joists can be set into them quickly on both ends. No matter...just stay safe!

    Thanks Jim! Will do.
    Jeff

  9. #159

    Electrical rough in begins

    In an effort to get the wires from the breaker box, which is located in the middle of the barn, over to the apartment, I created a "raceway" of sorts to give the wire a pathway to its destination. In the Telecommunications industry, raceways or "wire trays" are common fixtures in facilities where the electronic equipment resides. I used that idea having been in the business for 38 years to run the Romex.

    I used 5/4 x 6" deck boards from the service panel to a centrally running raceway that dissects the apartment length wise as shown below

    IMG_1375.jpgIMG_1373.jpg


    I'm using 12/2 Romex for this phase of wiring and that includes outlet boxes around the whole apartment and switches for light receptacles. Dedicated 240 volt runs for appliances are next, once I can afford the 10/2 and 10/3 for that phase.

    IMG_1370.jpgIMG_1371.jpg


    A side chore this past weekend was to replace the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor on my 2003 Tahoe. The front trans axle was smack in the way of getting to the electrical connection so this must be the hardest one of four sensors this truck has to get to.

    IMG_1377.jpgIMG_1382.jpg


    It is nice though to have the room to work out of the elements a cold temps to do the work. Love it!
    Jeff

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