feedback on "stainless stickers" and proper stacking

[David Mealey]

I had a 12" x 40" red elm logged into 25" x 9' slabs 9/4 thick. Needless to say they weigh a ton. I have a forklift that I"m using to move the slabs. To get the forks in and out of the slabs I'm using 2x4 studs cut to length as stickers. Seemed like the cheapest and most efficient way of doing it.

I used some 3/4" cedar fencing material ripped down to 1" wide, for a stack of maple boards. Same question, does anyone have experience using either material as stickers.

On another note, I've seen references to making sure the stacks don't sit to close to the side of my barn and made the initial stack 12" off the wall. What about space between stacks. The more the better?

Thanks for all your help.

David Mealey.

[Kevin Jenness]

The important thing is that the stickers are dry and free of rot inducing elements. Construction grade 2x4's are typically dried down to around 19%, higher than ideal but probably okay if they have been stored undercover at the yard. That makes for a rather wide sticker- it would be worth considering dadoing or coving them to reduce contact area. If the fencing material is new, the same consideration applies, if recycled it may be risky depending on condition. Maple is one of the species most vulnerable to sticker stain, so clean dry stickers and a good roof with plenty of airflow are key.

As far as spacing off your barn, I would want to be at least 6' away if there is a dripline from the eaves on that side, otherwise 12" should be fine in terms of airflow. If you want to get in between the stacks then 2' minimum.

Elm is a very twisty wood in my limited experience, so some serious weight or regularly adjusted rachet straps over the stacks should be considered.

Elm can be quite spectacular despite its contrary nature. Good luck with it.

[Danny Hamsley]

I would go with at least 2' of clear air space on all sides of the stack.

[David Mealey]

thanks for the feedback. I'm going to rip the 2x4's in half and move the stacks to accommodate the airflow. I'm up in the Pacific NW and it's been raining buckets the last two weeks so I wanted to get the wood under a dry roof asap, hence the quick stacks.

DM

[David Mealey]

Hi Kevin,

Thanks for your feedback. Yesterday I lifted some of the slabs to rip the 2x4's in half and saw that they had become saturated from the moisture in the slabs. Would you replace them and start with fresh drier stickers to avoid the "rot inducing elements" you talked about?

Thanks,

David M.

[Kevin Jenness]

I can't say definitively, though that may be the safest approach. If the 2x's and the elm surfaces they contacted don't look or smell funky it may be sufficient to rip and/or groove them to reduce the contact area. I have seen commercial stickers that are coved and some that are ribbed diagonally (by compression rollers?) for this purpose.