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Thread: Laser for metal cutting jewelry

  1. #16
    I believe he told me 1-2 pass with the current off the shelf system. I'll double check with him but he did give me an estimate of how long it'd take to cut the blanks I needed and it was like 25mins saved on the MOP. Cutting titanium isn't an easy task, not to mention setup/fixtures needed. Most of my cutters are Altin coated for the CNC's & use a ton of flood coolant. Achieving a square ID 90° (well almost square) & not much need for fixturing was enough for me, opens up so many doors. Most of the stuff I make I jump from machine to machine anyway, but time saved is money made ! The YT videos aren't that great, the real stuff is on the instagram page. lol starting to sound like I sell them. I have no affiliation with the company, but very close to be buying a machine. The company can make whatever you need at whatever wattage as long as you have the funds. IDK guess we'll see, but they've made some pretty exciting stuff.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris szlachetka View Post
    I'm telling ya check out the Ztechlaser company, roughly 35k for baseline model (capable of cutting .25" Titanium) is the quote I got. I was also told they can make what size/power you need. Not the companies best clips below, much better content is on instagram ! best of luck, hope that helps !



    youtube.com/watch?v=Mr4dN_VdIPU
    youtube.com/watch?v=FL9Y1nIbWRs
    I hate to burst the bubble, but those videos are of engraving only (though I love how they show it being done on a sheet with two similarly-sized holes right next to the engraving, leading you to believe the same system did it all). Cutting through that thick brass sheet with a 50W will require many many passes.
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  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hintz View Post
    I hate to burst the bubble, but those videos are of engraving only (though I love how they show it being done on a sheet with two similarly-sized holes right next to the engraving, leading you to believe the same system did it all). Cutting through that thick brass sheet with a 50W will require many many passes.
    That, as well as you won't cut straight edges with a Galvo, even if you did have the patience to let it cut all the way through. The angles would be pretty steep.

    I'd also be a little careful in recommending a company when you haven't put any hours behind their machinery. They may be great, but at this point, it's all speculation from a sales call and a couple youtube videos.
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  4. #19
    roughly 35k for baseline model (capable of cutting .25" Titanium
    I believe he told me 1-2 pass with the current off the shelf system
    Not on this planet unless that Galvo has a 400 watt fibre resonator. Having atmospheric oxygen and nitrogen when cutting Ti is a huge problem on anything past 1 - 2mm thick, it causes a hard oxide layer to form leading to crack propagation due to absorption of the gasses into the metal. Much as I don't like doing Ti I usually do it using Argon-Helium mix and even then it can be a problem.

    Typically I'd run 1/4 Ti at 4,000 watts with 240psi of gas pressure for a speed of around 70 inches a minute (1.8m a minute)

    but they've made some pretty exciting stuff.
    Not really, all looks pretty much the same technology everybody else is doing and in the case of China...cheaper too
    You did what !

  5. #20
    Well I guess we won't know until we try, but have seen and mentioned to checkout the instagram page. I'm gonna try and find a customer that owns one. I just said to check it out, not buy one.


    Dave I might have some work for you if interested. Shoot me a PM if you can cut CP4 .125" blanks
    Last edited by chris szlachetka; 01-18-2016 at 2:30 PM.

  6. #21
    Hi guys. My laser is a 450/4500 quasi continuous mode fiber. That means it's 450 watts continuous or up to 4500 watts when pulsed at a 10% duty cycle. Mine can cut through 1/4" titanium, but I have a laser head with pressurized argon to get through it. I don't think it would work with a galvo to get through it. The laser doesn't ablate the material like an engraving laser; it makes it molten and the assist gas blasts it through the material. I think it would simply just melt back in place if a galvo was used. I've tried experiments with engraving with the laser, and it always seems to come down to manipulation of molten metal. You will get a clean engrave in one direction, but the metal blasts out the other direction on a second cut, as it pushes molten metal back to the place you first engraved. It always ends up looking sloppy because of that.

    When I cut through material, I normally get a good cut on the sidewalls, but there is always dross on the back side of the cut that needs to be knocked off. In titanium, the material gets hardened, so it's tough to simply sand off, but knocking it off with a file first works fine.

    Here's a titanium ring that was made from 4 rings, laser cut, then laser welded.
    DSCN3684.jpg
    ULS 135 watt w/rotary, Mazak QT-6T CNC lathe, Dapra machining center, Sherline CNC, Tormach CNC, Acad, Rofin welding laser, YAG laser w/ rotary, 4500 watt Fiber laser
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  7. #22
    Here's some laser cut and YAG engraved stainless plates. If you jewelry guys need some help with some special projects, just let me know.

    DSCN3485.jpg
    ULS 135 watt w/rotary, Mazak QT-6T CNC lathe, Dapra machining center, Sherline CNC, Tormach CNC, Acad, Rofin welding laser, YAG laser w/ rotary, 4500 watt Fiber laser
    Boone Titanium Rings

  8. #23
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    Awesome work Bruce.

    Full Spectrum's off the list for me. I sent them a detailed email of our requirements and budget, specifically asking about their "metal cutting laser" for $25K. Their response pretty much ignored my requirements and suggested a $12K galvo (for engraving, even though my requirements specifically said for cutting) and went on to explain why CO2 wasn't a good option for cutting metal. Not very clear marketing since they're advertising the CO2 laser as a metal cutter.

    ZTech came back that their iQ30 model would be capable of cutting 1.25mm metal alloys for about $45K.

    Before we make any purchases I'll be visiting a showroom to see it in action. We got screwed previously buying a machine based on verbal promises of capabilities. But right now the Ztech is the only machine I've found in budget that (appears to) fit our requirements.
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  9. #24
    and went on to explain why CO2 wasn't a good option for cutting metal.
    Co2 works on metal but at low power (under 200 watts) it also needs Oxygen or a Pulsed firing system. Fibres wavelength is much better

    Careful when they say "Metal alloys".....not much under $150k is going anywhere near aluminium and the exotics (for lasers) like Ti and Boron alloys need huge power levels and expensive gasses.

    ZTech came back that their iQ30 model would be capable of cutting 1.25mm metal alloys for about $45K.
    Just looked at it, in effect it's a 30 watt galvo that is going to take an age to *cut* anything, the machine is really an engraver and while it will cut , at that power level it won't do it very well.

    A similar 30 watt Fibre out of China will cost around $8k

    If you want to cut precious metals start looking for a 400 watt to 1,000 watt Fibre and expect a price tag of $200k Western or $65k Chinese upwards.

    Sorry Terry but they are trying to sell you a machine on what it can do...not what it is practical to do.
    You did what !

  10. #25
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    Hi All,
    Greetings from Indonesia. I have a 1000w coherent fiber laser. it can cut very very small stuffs. We cut 1.5mm thick SUS304 for earring, pendants etc for our customers. we cut 0.5mm SUS430 for watch dials... drop by our website photo gallery to take a look at the stuffs we made for clients. Erm.. I think I cant post websites here if i am not mistaken. But you guys are not my target market. Drop by laserindonesia to look at them.

    i think beside the laser, you gotto think very much about the servos and the control system you have. The physical adjustments and alignments of everything got to be right. The blow pressure, the power to speed ratio, the way you are placing your objects gottobe spot-on. we usually cut jewelleries at speed down all the way at 50mm/sec at 30% power for maximum precision, least innertia. but the undersides have to be cleaned up with 500 grids sandpaper, followed by polishing. get very good cnc control interface. no point having power without control. Bigger power means faster cut and less temperature rise, less distortion on material though. But then you will get huge inertia. ouch!

    We also have IPG 20w laser on a galvo head. It is very very good at super detailed marking. but dont expect it to cut: you will be pretty disappointed. Unless you are bathing the metal in nitrogen, you are going to get oxidized edge. and though you wont touch it, it will move as the laser heats up the material. if you want to cut at low frequency and clean at higher frequency, it is going to take sooooo long. Maybe you can get a 100w on a galvo head. and get a very long lens to defeat the tappering, but at the cost of your Mrad, hence resolution. Cutting straight line is not really an issue because it is software compensated. But I wonder where all the liquid metals should go. Unless....

    you go for MOPA with pico-laser. or maybe femto-laser. they you would be able to vaporize the metal. get a damn good air filter, though... We have a 20w MOPA on galvo too. doesnt seem to cut that deep, though... as soon as you mark deep beyond 0.5mm you are out of focus. 40w would be even better but with longer lens, you loose intensity. Damn confusing.

    And make sure you get the right entrapments to hold tight to the material you are cutting. alot of wind and all kinds of forces at work.

    100K USD can get you alot of laser. a 1000 w fiber laser generator from SPI and coherent costs much less than that. 500w should be enough for stainless, but not for 3mm brass and copper. get a very good CNC system. lasermech, usa does very good heads for less than 10K, precitec for slightly more. get small marble cutting bed for very high precision. use screw instead of rack and pinion. chiller, compressor and i think you should be pretty set. Of course get somebody to set it up for you. BUt you can do it.

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  11. #26
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    Some great info in there, Tommy... thanks for chipping in.
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

    Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
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