Advice on drying walnut slabs

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

A couple of weeks ago I bought a large walnut log. about 2,8 meter long and up to 70 cm in diameter. I had it milled in slabs at about 5 cm thick.

I layed them to dry in my garage with sticks between them. I knew they could not stay there for long as there is no airflow, but im still surpriced how fast things happen. The endgrain is already grean from some kind of fungis and I know I will need to move them fast.

The question is.

Should I clean the end grain wiht some kind of fungis detergent before I put them to dry a prober place, or does that not matter?

[Cody Colston]

I wouldn't worry too much about the green stuff. You can use a wire brush to take it off if it concerns you. I'd be more concerned with end checking. Seal the ends with melted paraffin wax or use a 50/50 mix of aluminum paint and varnish. Anchorseal, a commercial product, is what I use but I don't know if it is available in Denmark.

If stored in a heated space, you need air flow to dry them properly. You also need a way for the moist air to exhaust. If you have an outdoor, covered area, I would store the slabs there until they have dried a few months, then bring them indoors. You may have to wait two or three years for them to dry thoroughly.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

Thanks. I have a liter of anchorseal or something similar. I will clean the endgrain and apply it soon. Im thinking of getting it kiln dried, but have to find out the cost first.

[glenn bradley]

I wanted you to get a valid reply before I state the obvious. I don't know why folks won't listen to me. The BEST way to dry or store your walnut is in southern California . . . specifically at my shop

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

I wanted you to get a valid reply before I state the obvious. I don't know why folks won't listen to me. The BEST way to dry or store your walnut is in southern California . . . specifically at my shop

If you do the shipping ;-)

[Cody Colston]

I've been re-reading some of Jim Krenov's books lately. He would have selected logs flitch sawn into 2" planks and the lumber yard would store the planks for him a year or two as they air dried. He would then bring them into his shop where they would stand, sometimes for seven or more years before he would work them. Even then, he said that they were not truly dry and he would saw them further and let them stand for weeks or months longer before finally cutting into workable dimensions.

He also wrote about how he would get "samples" of wood from Sao Paulo, Brazil. Six months to get from Brazil to Sweden, then three more years to dry.

I think the shipping time from Denmark to Socal would be much shorter as would the drying time.

[John K Jordan]

You might put a small fan in the room to circulate some air. I use a dehumidifier when the humidity is too high.

[David Dalzell]

I have fair amounts of both kiln dried and air dried walnut. After smoothing and finishing (I use shellac) the air dried walnut has significantly better looking grain pattern/colors than the kiln dried walnut. I don't know why, but the difference is noticeable. Therefore I dedicate the air dried walnut to the exposed (visible) parts of the furniture I make.