Suggestions for finish on Titanic Deck Chair

[Alan Lightstone]

Useful information all. I would like to either spray or use something like a wiping varnish - basically really don't want to have to brush this complex a surface. I can see me really ruining that.

I had noticed that Epifanes gives very detailed directions regarding thinning (and it's not too much). I've applied it on an exterior door which is was still in place (so vertical application), and preventing runs was next to impossible.

[Steve Schoene]

Best way to avoid graying is to make a fitted Sunbrella cover for whenever not in use.

For spraying Interlux Perfection would be good choice. It is a 2k Polyurethane, made for sun, and last I looked did have a matting additive available. Gulp at price but there is no free lunch.

[Alan Lightstone]

I think what I'm going with is spraying System Three S-1 Epoxy Sealer, followed by a number of coats of System Three Urethane Spar Varnish. A similar approach (I think) to what FWW liked in using Smith's CPES epoxy under Epifanes Gloss Varnish.

I may use some oil based stain underneath, but I'll have to make samples to look at them. No problems with that, right?

Anyone have experience using the System Three varnish?

[John TenEyck]

Good luck. No way I would spray solvent based varnish. The over spray will stick to everything. Why not use System Three water cleanup WR-LPU two part linear polyurethane coating?

John

[Alan Lightstone]

I did think of that, but I do have a good spray booth with an explosion proof fan. I'll just replace the filters frequently and keep the fan going for a while to make sure I get as much of the overspray as possible.

Not really set up to do this outdoors, and I've had no issues with overspray with lacquer, WB finishes, and shellac, though I know they are different animals. I've never sprayed Waterlox, though. Always avoided that.

[John TenEyck]

Best to put paper, plastic, whatever, on the floor so you can more easily deal with the over spray that ends up there. You're gonna have some great fly traps.

John

[Alan Lightstone]

I got a very nice call-back from a technician at System Three a few days ago. He went through, in detail, with me steps to maximize the durability and application of their products that I'm interested in. So, first of all, I wanted to give a shout out to a company with good customer service.

He said I can spray their S1 epoxy sealant also, but need good protective gear (which I have). He said thinning should not be required, but I'll have to play with it and check which tips to use and the viscosity. He also reiterated their advice about sealing all screw holes with epoxy, as that is the location where most of the finishes fail first. So I went ahead and did that last night.

I've taken apart the chair as much as possible (not much, I'm afraid), so as soon as the S-1 sealer arrives, I'll start experimenting and get to work. In the mean time, I'll put down a coat of stain on it to enhance the color.

Any suggestions for nice stains for mahogany? Also, any issues with the epoxy sealer going over that? I'm not going to need to shoot a coat of dewaxed shellac over that, I hope, as a barrier. The system three technician wasn't sure, but thought that if I gave the stain a week to dry, I'd be okay.

[Prashun Patel]

Alan-
Can't wait to see the final product!

As for staining mahogany, I humbly suggest you let that mahogany take care of itself. "Genuine" mahogany will start out golden rust, and matures to a deep rust eventually. I don't find it needs any stain/dye at all.

[Alan Lightstone]

Any issues with using the System Three S-1 epoxy sealer over a coat of BLO? I'm liking the look a lot better after a quick BLO coat, but don't know if the epoxy will be incompatible over that, or just won't soak in to the wood, which is the point of it.

[Alan Lightstone]

OK. Resurrecting an old thread of mine.

The Titanic Deck Chair has been outdoors now in the Florida sun for 4 years. Which, I might add, is four years longer than the original on the ship.

I did use the System Three epoxy sealer and then System Three urethane spar varnish.

The chair now finally looks like the finish is deteriorating and needs to be redone. Fortunately, I've had cushions over the main body and leg piece, so it's mostly the arms that need work.

Here's what they look like now:
Titanic Deck Chair - Arms needing refinishing 1.jpg Titanic Deck Chair - Arms needing refinishing 4.jpg

Any suggestions as to best process to refinish this? Curves everywhere, so sanding would be a beast. Plus multiple coats of epoxy with marine spar varnish over it.

[Alan Lightstone]

No hints on how to refinish marine spar varnish over epoxy?

Seems to be a common finishing method for boats.

[David Publicover]

I started reading this without checking the date and then realized it was rather late to add my advice. After 45 of caring for my own boats, I’ve learned that nothing lasts for too long in the bright work world and that before you put a product on you should consider how to get it off! Not too much help now I understand. I’d probably tackle it with a sharp scraper and maybe carefully with a heat gun to see if that helped. Sanding would be slower but maybe safer. I’m unaware of any easy way but would be happy to learn of one; I have some revarnishing to do myself.