Advice request for new production method for my signs.

[Reuben Contineli]

I make signs by laser cutting 3mm Baltic birch, sanding, then painting them using spray paint (always black color). I would like to stop using spray paint due to the smell nuisance, dirtiness, health considerations, and the dependency on weather. (My shop is homebased and I paint outside in a custom made paint booth.) Attached is a sample of my most complex sign, the size is 12" x 12" and the largest sign I make is 12" x 9.5". At peak production days, I painted 50 signs in a 6 hour session, where common days are 25 signs in a 3 hour session.


I am looking for a combination of material and processing that will eliminate painting, yet, will still allow finishing 15 signs per day that is safe and decently clean.

My requirements is that the signs are laser cut for the details and the material is decently ridged, no less than 3mm Baltic birch's rigidity.


So far I found these options and non-options:

Precolored plasic, such as ePVC is a no go with the laser. CNC routering is out because the detail requirements. (I own/operated a CNC router for a few years and I don't want to go down that path again.)
Black polycarbonate doesn't have the satin finish that is required.

Hand painting the wood using oil or latex paint. This may lead to uneven finishes and the cure time is slow and oil off-gasses. Could I bake the oil-based paint in an oven and ventilate the area?

Changing from wood to metal, such as 6061 aluminium. Then either anodizing or power coating for the finish.
Anodizing seems like a manageable process, I don't know about any smells. I would want to build the tanks to possibly hold 5 signs. Luckily I only finish the signs in black.
Power coating seems a little dirty, no more so than paint overspray. I read that there is a smell with certain powders. This would require some electrical work to get the 220 line installed and I will need to build a production shed to house a booth and oven(s).

Some other thoughts: It's unlikely that my customers would notice the going from wood to metal, however, I may gain more sales due to the higher quality material. When it comes to investment capitol, I am willing to invest up to $15,000. $10,000 of that will likely just be the laser to cut the metal. (Having the ability to cut metal opens possibilities for new revenue streams)

I am hoping I missed something obvious, any advice or insights is greatly appreciated!



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[Ross Moshinsky]

1. Black acrylic. Cut it and you're done. Matte black acrylic does exist.
2. Stain the wood with an ebony stain. Spraying will improve production time.
3. Change paints. Latex paints are less stinky but they dry slower. You can spray latex paints despite what you read on the net. Thinning is definitely required.
4. Paint the whole sheet first. Then cut. This will give a different look but it may work for you and should cut production time down. You will have to mask before painting.

[Barb Macdonald]

Rowmark or equivalent black/matte clear. Laser the graphic, and back up with coloured vinyl.
Lasering paint is pretty stinky. Lasered a large steel sound panel supplied by a sound studio, very detailed cool graphic Logo (Metalworks Studios, if interested), and it stunk, a lot.
Lasering painted aluminum smells too. The only thing I enjoy smelling is wood, on the laser.
Well, maybe bread too, if I lasered my lunch.
Best of luck!

[Mike Null]

These are acrylic signs I made for the Rawlings Museum at their headquarters. They are 1/8" thick matt finish surface with black painted second surface. They were engraved from the back. They could be color filled with any color usng acrylic.

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[Joe Pelonio]

While it's expensive, 1-Shot paint will roll on and look like it was sprayed, very even leveling. Dry to touch in 2-5 hours. I use the Shur-line3" disposable rollers that come with clear plastic tray, about $3.