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Thread: Help to bore hole in leg

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Help to bore hole in leg

    Is there a good or best way to bore an approximately 5/8" dia hole about 20" long up a table leg (end grain) for an electrical wire. I am afraid to use a regular auger bit with extensions because of the possibility the hole will wander out the side of the leg. The 37" long leg is cherry, 2 1/2" dia at narrowest and 3" dia at widest near the end of the hole. I could try it on one leg and if hole starts going crooked, then try another leg until I get one straight. I have 6 legs to try but would much rather just have one hole drilled up one leg and have that hole be straight and true.

    If there is someone in the Tacoma Seattle area who could do it for me, that would be preferred. My thought was to find someone who makes flutes but from what I have found out, flute tubes are split and then routed before reassembling. I was thinking maybe gunsmith but they use metal cutting blades of smaller diameter. I found a bit on line that looked like it would work but was about $150. It had hollow shaft and solid 3" or so long cutting end same diameter of hole (to keep it aligned) with a V cut into it to allow shavings removal using compressed air that is somehow sent down the bit. I didn't look at it very close due to cost.

    I have a bench top drill press I could set on my work bench, turn the drill part so it is over the side of the bench and then set the leg in the bench vice and give it a try with some type of bit. I have brad point bits and augers that might work using extensions. I don't have much luck using forstner bits for deep holes. Drill press is heavy and moving it off the floor (where I use it) is not easy. I would much rather drive 100 miles round trip than move the drill press. My friends are like me, old with bad backs. Matter of fact, the last back surgery I had was due to that drill press when I bought and moved it 3 years ago with someone helping. That person has told me he will not help move it again. Last time I moved it, I hired movers.

    Thank you in advance for any leads or suggestions.
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  2. #2
    If you can find a Creeker with a lathe, it is possible to drill through the leg accurately that way.

  3. #3
    I'd check with a builder of wooden boats or The Center For Wooden Boats. Boring long holes is a common thing for them.

  4. #4
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    Can you split the leg (rip) cut a channel down both sides and glue the thing back together without messing up the project (too much)?
    If done nicely, I'd think you'd be the only one to notice the leg being 1/8" smaller in one dimension.
    Might have to do some creative sanding on the rounds.
    Last edited by Tom Ewell; 12-16-2015 at 9:42 AM.

  5. #5
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    Thank you for suggestions.

    I talked to a wood turner about it and he is going to talk to gunsmith friend. I just sent off a contact email to The Center For Wooden Boats. Splitting the leg isn't feasible for me due to shape and depth of cut.

  6. #6
    Just curious, what's the purpose of an electrical wire part way into a table leg?

  7. #7
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    Actually the legs will be supporting a kitchen island and the wire(s) will be for microwave drawer and possibly receptacle. The leg extends to the top of the 18" high cabinet which will be about 17" off the floor.

  8. #8
    You might want to check local codes on that. There might be issues with running AC power up the inside of a wooden leg as you are planning.

  9. #9
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    I absolutely agreed with Dave - what you are planning to do - invitation for disaster. If wire will get hot it may start a fire. Especially wire for microwave and receptacle with possible hangry to amps kitchen appliances.

    Ed.

  10. #10
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    First, I appreciate people watching out for my safety and I will check with local code people and will research running wire in wood leg. I have not decided whether to have receptacle. In any case, the wires are in place below the floor. One is dedicated 14ga circuit for microwave and other is off kitchen receptacle circuit and may also be 14ga.

    If I am unable to bore hole or if wire in leg is code or safety issue, my fall back is to run a stainless conduit from floor to underside of cabinet.

    I don't believe running wires in plastic conduit buried in concrete or even buried in foam insulation is an issue. I understood conduit and electric boxes have fill capacity to protect against overheating. I thought that conduit is intended to protect wire against damage and to allow future access for wire maintenance. I understand the heat concern in a wood leg and will check into this but not sure it is an issue as long as the circuit is protected by suitable breaker. If it is an issue, because it is not covered in the code, then maybe inserting a plastic or metal conduit in the leg would be ok. I know of times when wires are run in wood framing that has been built up with a cavity left for the wire such as in headers or solid studs between a door and another door or a window.

    Thank you for alerting me to possible issue.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Richards View Post
    You might want to check local codes on that. There might be issues with running AC power up the inside of a wooden leg as you are planning.
    I have a floor lamp with a wood shaft, and the power cable runs up the inside. So there's no fundamental with putting power wiring inside of wood. If you're concerned about the cabling heating up too much, get larger-diameter wire.

  12. #12
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    I would practice on a 2X2 (from a 2X4) and see what works. You may be able to drill 18" from each end and meet in the middle of the leg. An electricians auger bit might do the job.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    I have a floor lamp with a wood shaft, and the power cable runs up the inside. So there's no fundamental with putting power wiring inside of wood. If you're concerned about the cabling heating up too much, get larger-diameter wire.
    I'm not concerned. I don't care one way or the other. I do know of others who wanted to run wires inside a table or desk leg and found there were issues related to electrical codes and in at least one case home owners insurance that prevented them from doing it. Personally I like the the concept. I just think it's worth checking it out before going to the trouble of drilling out the leg and doing the wiring.

  14. #14
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    BX or flex conduit might be required anyway for this application because of the moving drawer part. (if that's the case)

  15. #15
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    Assuming the piece is fixed to the floor, there is no code or safety reason why line voltage NMD90 can't be run in the leg. The fire hazard would be no greater than running the cable through wood studs.

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