Resawing issues

[James Jayko]

Hey all,

sort of a noob question.

ihave a grizzly 514X2 bandsaw, and I have been trying to get decent at resawing with it (no luck so far). At first, the fence wasn't square to the table, so I shimmed that up, but still not getting decent results. I've checked and rechecked all the setup of the saw, and everything seems to be right. I was using the stock blade (1/2", ~7 TPI). The more I've read, it seems that this blade is 100% inappropriate for any meaningful resawing jobs, so I ordered a 3/4", 3 TPI blade which should arrive today.

my question is how likely is it that the incorrect blade was the lion's share of my problem? I figured it wouldn't be optimal but would likely work. That seems to not be the case.

any insight?

[Nelson Howe]

That blade sounds very inappropriate to me. The list of better choices is long. 3/4 3 tip sounds much better, and I think you will be happy with the results if your saw can tension it. Opinions vary on the brand of blade choices. I have had very good results Lennox blades; Spectrum Supply is good supplier. Their bimetal blades are affordable and last a long time.

Nelson

[George Bokros]

What is the problem you are experiencing? You say you have the problem but not what it is so it will be difficult for anyone to provide any meaningful assistance.

[James Jayko]

Well, I guess the problem is that it's not cutting straight (top to bottom). It isn't super consistent, but if I follow the line on the top of the board I'm resawing, the bottom tends to wonder (mainly towards the fence, so the piece on the fence side ends up particularly thin at the bottom). I.e. If I am splitting 4/4 into 2 1/2" pieces, the table side edge of the piece on the fence side might be 1/4" or less. My reading has led me to believe that this is largely because the blade is no where near aggressive enough, so one has to exert a lot of force to get it through the blade. That, and that the high TPI count means the blade is likely getting hot.

[James Jayko]

I believe the saw can go up to 1" or 1 1/4". It's a 3 HP, massively overkill for my needs saw (I think).

i just got the appropriate sized 3 TPI resaw blade on Amazon (about $30). If that resolves my issues, I'll probably look for one of the really high quality blades that I have seen mentioned in the forums (woodslicer or whatever).

[Kent Adams]

Well, I guess the problem is that it's not cutting straight (top to bottom). It isn't super consistent, but if I follow the line on the top of the board I'm resawing, the bottom tends to wonder (mainly towards the fence, so the piece on the fence side ends up particularly thin at the bottom). I.e. If I am splitting 4/4 into 2 1/2" pieces, the table side edge of the piece on the fence side might be 1/4" or less. My reading has led me to believe that this is largely because the blade is no where near aggressive enough, so one has to exert a lot of force to get it through the blade. That, and that the high TPI count means the blade is likely getting hot.

James, watch this entertaining video of Alex Snodgrass on the bandsaw and follow along with him on how to set up your bandsaw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

[Nelson Howe]

That certainly is symptomatic of too many tpi and too narrow a blade for resawing. I have found the woodslicer leaves a really smooth finish and takes a very small kerf. I just doesn't last very long at all.

Nelson

[Wes Ramsey]

James, watch this entertaining video of Alex Snodgrass on the bandsaw and follow along with him on how to set up your bandsaw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

I'll 2nd this bandsaw clinic video. His setup method is quite a bit different than what the manual tells you, but it flat works. I'm a bandsaw noob myself, also with the G0514X2, and mine saws as thin a line as I want, perfectly square with no drift. I absolutely LOVE my saw and don't know why I waited so long to get one. I bought mine used with a good supply of 3/4" 3TPI Timber Wolf blades and they work very well. Following Alex's suggestion of about 1/8" travel when tapping on the blade mine is tensioned to about 4 or so on the tension scale. Alex's method of testing the level of your table probably works fine for small stuff, but I prefer a bit more accuracy for resawing so I use a Wixey angle gauge to make sure the table and fence are parallel and perpendicular to the blade.

[John TenEyck]

Yes, that blade is completely inappropriate for resawing. The teeth load up, can't clear the sawdust, and then the blade wanders regardless of how much tension you have on the band. The blade you ordered will be much better assuming your saw can tension it adequately. My two cents is that the advise from Mr. Snodgrass, while well intentioned, is without much merit. If you want your saw to cut a straight line the wheels have to be in parallel planes (the same plane being best but not an absolute requirement) and the only way to find that out is to check to see if they are. That's step one. Step two is to adjust the tension on the band to what the manufacturer recommends, if the saw is capable of doing that. Third is to adjust the tracking until the blade cuts straight, meaning parallel with the miter slot. When those 3 criteria are met, you can clamp a tall fence on your table parallel with the miter slot, and cut nice uniform slices including as thin as veneer.

John

[Prashun Patel]

I have that saw and a similar blade. Your problems should be fixed with it.

It will resaw just fine most normal, dried, domestic wood with even a 3/8" blade. Tension isn't an issue for a G0514 with a 3/4" blade.

The biggest factor is the 3tpi.

[Myk Rian]

Well, I guess the problem is that it's not cutting straight (top to bottom).

Adjust the TABLE to be perpendicular to the blade. Not the fence.

[fRED mCnEILL]

"My two cents is that the advise from Mr. Snodgrass, while well intentioned, is without much merit. If you want your saw to cut a straight line the wheels have to be in parallel planes (the same plane being best but not an absolute requirement) and the only way to find that out is to check to see if they are. "
Having used the snodgrass method to set up my saw I found it now resaws perfectly. Prior to that it was only good for cutting down scrap to fit in the garbage can.
As for the wheels being co-planar first of all you say they HAVE to be co-planar but then go on to say its not an absolute requirement. It can't be both, can it?

[glenn bradley]

my question is how likely is it that the incorrect blade was the lion's share of my problem?

Your new blade and a bit of adjustment on your technique and it will seem like a new saw.

if I follow the line on the top of the board I'm resawing, the bottom tends to wonder (mainly towards the fence, so the piece on the fence side ends up particularly thin at the bottom).

Joint one face flat. Joint one edge perpendicular to that face. Place that face against your tall fence and the jointed edge down. No line following required. Keep these two surfaces in contact with the fence and table as you make your cut and all should be well.

GnG Low CoD (13).jpg . GnG Low CoD (14).jpg . GnG Low CoD (15).jpg . GnG Low CoD (16).jpg

I use stacked feather boards to assist but, even more important are support stands (depending on the length of weight of your stock). I run a 5/8" or 3/4" 2-3 skip tooth for resaw. I have run others but, always seem to go back. I do keep a Woodslicer on hand for times (due to stock availability or poor planning) when I just can't afford the wider kerf. As to tension, I use the flutter method as described by Suffolk Machinery and always have. 10", 14", 17" or whatever, this method yields excellent results on a well aligned saw.

From their website:

1. Remove guides–you CANNOT run this test if the band saw blade is restricted in any lateral movement.
2. Make sure tire surfaces are in good condition–they cannot be hard, flattened out, cracked or brittle. On mills with loose fitting V-belts, replace them with the next size down so they are tight fitting. This will eliminate over 80% of the vibration in your mill and the blade.
3. Mount the blade on the machine and apply the tension to the band that the manufacturer recommends for other steels.
4. Close all covers for safety purposes.
5. Start the machine, engage the clutch into the high speed cutting mode. NOTE: You will not be cutting any wood.
6. Stand at the head of the machine, with your hand on the turn screw tensioner and your eyes on the band saw blade. Very slowly start detensioning by half turns at a time, keeping your eyes on the band saw blade. The object is to bring the tension of the blade down to a point that the blade starts to flutter. TAKE YOUR TIME.
7. When you see the band start to flutter, you have hit ground “ZERO”. Now start ADDING quarter turns of tension, SLOWLY, until the band stops fluttering and is running stable again. At this point ADD one-eight to one-quarter turn of tension.
8. You have now tensioned our blade correctly. Shut off the machine and put your guides back in place. You are now ready to start sawing.
9. ALWAYS DETENSION YOUR BAND SAW BLADES. Since you do not know exactly where the proper tension is, it will be easier to remember if you take off 8, 9, or 10 full turns of tension until the band is completely relaxed. The next time you use our bands, add the same amount of turns of tension that were taken off. At this point, you will only have to run the flutter test one time.

[Michael Weber]

As for the wheels being co-planar first of all you say they HAVE to be co-planar but then go on to say its not an absolute requirement. It can't be both, can it?

i believe he means they don't necessarily have to be in the same plane but ideally would be.

[John TenEyck]

i believe he means they don't necessarily have to be in the same plane but ideally would be.

Yes, this is what I thought I said. And if Mr. Snodgrass's advise worked for someone, I'm happy for them. But he says you should not even bother to check the alignment of your wheels because the manufacturer has set them appropriately. Maybe on some machines but definitely not universally true or people wouldn't continue to ask for help. And he completely ignores those of us who have older machines that might have some significant wear in them. My saw would not cut parallel to the miter slot despite following every bit of advise Mr. Snodgrass offered. I finally checked the wheel alignment and found they were not even close to being in parallel planes. I had to make some frame adjustments and add a shim behind the top wheel in order to get them in parallel planes and very close to being coplaner. It cut beautifully straight after that, and continues to do so several years later.

You shouldn't have to settle for a saw that can't cut straight. When all else fails, check the wheel alignment. Or check them first and assure yourself they are not the source of your problems.

John