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Thread: cutting bowl blanks

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Orleans, Cape Cod, Ma.
    Posts
    758

    cutting bowl blanks

    I have been using my Rikon 14" bandsaw to rough out my bowl and platter blanks for quite a while. It works much better than a chainsaw as they are better balanced, etc. My problem is getting the blades resharpened. Does anyone know of a service that resharpens the smaller band saw blades? Lots of places want to sell 'em, but I can't seem to find a place that doesn't just sharpen the larger log sawing blades. thanks for any help, Fred P.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Montfort, Wi.
    Posts
    804
    Several different ways to sharpen your own. Google sharpening band saw blades and you'll have instructions and videos. I've done it and it really works well.
    Dave Fritz

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Coshocton Ohio
    Posts
    167
    I also cut all my bowl blanks to round using my 14" bandsaw ( Powermatic).
    I found the best solution to premature dulling and breakage.
    I have started using Highland woodworking's Woodturner blades.
    They are 3/8" wide and half again as thick as most blades on the market.
    They seem to last a very long time. I haven't considered sharpening them however.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Posts
    524
    I re sharpen mine, works good, not perfect but good. u tube is helpful

  5. #5
    I found a local shop that does it for my blades. Big ones are 150 inch with teeth at 3/4 inch, and the small one is 96 inch blade with 3 tpi. Costs about $9 for the big blades. I do use the Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blades which do cost a bit more, but cut straighter and cut far longer than others. They are worth resharpening many times. I don't think I have sharpened the teeth off any of them. They seem to get to a point and then break. I do prefer the thicker blades.

    robo hippy

  6. #6
    band saw blade sharpening:

    http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/distributors.html

    I don't know how accurate the information is.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Roseville,Ca
    Posts
    455

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    I have been sharpening mine for years now using a small metal-cutting disk on a Dremel, touching it briefly to the front of the tooth at an angle. This doesn't take long on my 14" bandsaw with 3-4 tpi; longer on my 18". I usually sharpen two times before I replace the blade.

    Another option is to find the best price on new blades. A local bottled gas company has a guy who makes any size, any type of bandsaw blade from Lennox stock, often while I wait. He can cut and weld and grind a blade and put in in a box in what seems like less than a minute. The price is about 1/2 of what I have paid elsewhere. I usually get a bunch of blades made at one time so I never get frustrated late Saturday night. Many companies in the area use this guy, many for metal-cutting blades.

    Sorry, don't know anything about sharpening services except for my big WoodMizer band mill blades.

    BTW, I process a lot of green wood, mostly to make smaller blanks to dry for spindle turning. I used to use large, wide blades on my bigger saw. I now use thin 3 tpi 1/2" blades and they work better. And they are much cheaper.

    JKJ

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Cuero, Texas--Not too far from the third coast.
    Posts
    54
    I too use my bandsaws to round my blanks. I use my dremel tool with the chainsaw sharpening tip (gray one) to sharpen my 3 tpi blades. General rule of thumb is 2-3 sharpenings before getting a new blade. Takes about 5 min or so.
    Using Texas woods--especially Mesquite, the "Queen" of woods.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
    Posts
    834
    Carter makes a 'green wood' blade as well that I've had good results with.
    Where did I put that?

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