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Thread: Epoxy to Saturate Soft Spalted Maple for Table Top

  1. #16
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    When I turn spalted maple, I hose it with CA.
    Where did I put that tape measure...

  2. #17
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    What luck have people had with mixed epoxy dissolved in alcohol? A test I did turned out fine so far (and alcohol is cheaper than epoxy).

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Gardner View Post
    What luck have people had with t that epoxy dissolved in alcohol? A test I did turned out fine so far (and alcohol is cheaper than epoxy).
    The information I have read on the major epoxy manufacturer's websites says that thinning with acetone will compromise strength to a large degree. I'm not sure mixed epoxy is even soluble in methyl or ethyl alcohol. Acetone is indeed cheaper than epoxy but all you are doing is diluting the stuff that provides adhesion and strength with stuff that doesn't. I have seen epoxy successfully used with acetone several times where great strength isn't required but I prefer a material specifically made for the purpose.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Herrmann View Post
    When I turn spalted maple, I hose it with CA.

    I've used CA on small defects and such before too Gary. But I would need a WHOLE LOT of those little bottles to do this job! I guess I should have mentioned this earlier. I have two 5/4 boards 5 to 6 inches wide. One is 5” long and the other is nearly 8” which is why I am looking at epoxies and other hardeners that come in larger quantities.
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

  5. #20
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    Hey, has anybody used this? It's water based, so it has minimal fumes.

    PC-Petrifier Wood Hardener.jpg
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

  6. #21
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    I have not used this particular product... I have used a two part epoxy designed for this (as I already posted) and I have used the MinWax product. Most people seem to like the PC-Petrifier product, but, in the reviews that I have seen, tests against the MinWax product they prefer MinWax. Why? Because it dries harder and they felt that it painted better. I know you do not intend to pain, or you would just purchase new wood (since I don't think you are repairing, just getting wood ready to use).

    Other reviews say similar things about this product. Specifically that it is not as hard as expected, and some complain that it flakes off or crumbles. I can't help but wonder if the crumbling is related to the material they hardened, but who knows. With all that said, the reviews generally are happy with the product with the caveats stated above. The primary advantage seems to be the price.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    I have not used this particular product... I have used a two part epoxy designed for this (as I already posted) and I have used the MinWax product. Most people seem to like the PC-Petrifier product, but, in the reviews that I have seen, tests against the MinWax product they prefer MinWax. Why? Because it dries harder and they felt that it painted better. I know you do not intend to pain, or you would just purchase new wood (since I don't think you are repairing, just getting wood ready to use).

    Other reviews say similar things about this product. Specifically that it is not as hard as expected, and some complain that it flakes off or crumbles. I can't help but wonder if the crumbling is related to the material they hardened, but who knows. With all that said, the reviews generally are happy with the product with the caveats stated above. The primary advantage seems to be the price.

    Thanks Andy,

    Youre right, I have two beautifully spalted maple boards that I want to use to make a couple of Christmas presents. The wood is not the least bit crumbly but, as is the case with spalted wood, there are some soft spots. I have a number of health problems. In fact I'm a wheelchair woodworker. Strong odors, including solvent odors, really irritate me. When I read up on the MinWax Product, it says that it can offgas fumes for some time. Epoxy should not have that problem, but it is considerably more expensive. Hmmm...
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stew Hagerty View Post
    Hey, has anybody used this? It's water based, so it has minimal fumes.

    PC-Petrifier Wood Hardener.jpg

    I used it on a deck that was starting to deteriorate. It helped stabilize the wood a bit but in no way is in the same class as a good penetrating epoxy.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stew Hagerty View Post
    Youre right, I have two beautifully spalted maple boards that I want to use to make a couple of Christmas presents. The wood is not the least bit crumbly but, as is the case with spalted wood, there are some soft spots. I have a number of health problems. In fact I'm a wheelchair woodworker. Strong odors, including solvent odors, really irritate me. When I read up on the MinWax Product, it says that it can offgas fumes for some time. Epoxy should not have that problem, but it is considerably more expensive. Hmmm...
    I understand how that works... I am adverse to stinky things.... When I used the epoxy and the minwax, I worked outside in a garage. Given your application it will likely be just fine, but, as always, do a test first!

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