Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 24

Thread: Epoxy to Saturate Soft Spalted Maple for Table Top

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,453

    Epoxy to Saturate Soft Spalted Maple for Table Top

    Hey there everyone, I hope your week is going well.

    I have some nice heavily spalted maple that I plan on using for a table top. It's very soft but beautiful, which is why I want to use it as a tabletop. I have seen videos that show the use of an epoxy to soak into the soft fibers. I guess the softer it is, the more it penetrates which is perfect. My problem is that the videos I have seen them do it in fail to mention what epoxy they are using. It is obviously much thinner than the epoxy I have on hand that I use for repairs & such. And it needs to be in order to be able to pour it on and squeegee it all over and have it soak deep down into the fibers. I have no doubt that many of you have used these products, and so once again I ask for some of your wisdom & experience to aid me in becoming a better woodworker.
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Delaplane, VA
    Posts
    117
    Years ago I used that stuff to stabilize some rotted window sills. I think it was called restoration epoxy or something like that. I'm certain I bought it at HD, but that was 20yr ago.

    It was in no way "squeegeeable", it was thin as water. I just brushed it on with a disposable paint brush until no more would soak in, and it cured hard as rock.


    I imagine if you look around the home center you will fond something. Or walk into a real paint store and ask, they will certainly know.
    -Dan D.

    Ray's rule for precision:

    Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,060
    Is what you're thinking of Git-Rot?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Fort Wayne IN
    Posts
    1,210
    Abatron makes a liquid 2 part epoxy that should work. It is very thin. I bought some and repaired windows and never used it all. I goes pretty far.
    Sometimes decisions from the heart are better than decisions from the brain.

    Enjoy Life...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,409
    I've seen this done wiht Gym-Seal (shudder)...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    houston tx
    Posts
    652
    I'm sure there must be an epoxy out there that will work. Minwax used to make stuff called wood restorer but I don't know if they still do. A mixture of plexiglass and acetone will stabilize or harden wood too. Melt as much plexiglass in the acetone as you can.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Vancouver Island BC-eh!
    Posts
    615
    Cold Cure is a very thin, penetrating type epoxy. I've used it in boat building and to stabilize burls. Lee Valley sells it. Oh, and free shipping too.

    56z7405s1.jpg

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,778
    I've used system three mirror coat, it's a decent product that can be used indoors.It does take a longtime to cure so a dust free area is a must.Be prepared for at least three coats.

  9. #9
    US Composites has good quality epoxy at much better prices than the major brands like System 3 and West System.
    Gerry

    JointCAM

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    I found out about this product from boat builders; seems that they love the stuff

    http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/

    I used this on :


    • oak bench that would be ignored outside.
    • Pine swing seat
    • Exterior trim around an entry door and a garage door that was kind of punky


    Very happy with the product, but kind of pricey.

    Before the purchase, I followed and read many of their links... things like these

    http://www.smithandcompany.org/glulam.html
    http://www.woodrestoration.com/woodrestoration01.pdf

    Some years back, say 9 years, I used a different product that I found at Home Depot. I do not remember the name, but I used it on a door. 8 years later that door is doing just fine. I also used some artificial wood filler, I don't remember what kind. The door bottom was a total loss, so I cut it off and used dowels (1/2" I think) to pin a new bottom in place.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    NE Mississippi
    Posts
    83
    I wonder if you would have better results if you put the wood in a plastic bag and attached it to a vacuum?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Vancouver Island BC-eh!
    Posts
    615
    Quote Originally Posted by Clay Parrish View Post
    I wonder if you would have better results if you put the wood in a plastic bag and attached it to a vacuum?

    Warming the wood helps, including immediately after the epoxy has been applied, with a hair dryer. You can see the air bubbles coming from the wood through the epoxy. Don't leave it too long though or the epoxy will start to set up and trap the bubbles. Do a test to get a feel for your epoxy.

  13. #13
    I've used this product on spalted maple and like the results http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/...-petrifier.php

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,453
    Thanks everybody, I'll look into your suggestions and let you know what I decide.
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    420
    This is a great product! I've used it to build boats and also to seal rotting exterior window frames before filling the rotten cavities. Not cheap but definitely worth the price.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Belair View Post
    Cold Cure is a very thin, penetrating type epoxy. I've used it in boat building and to stabilize burls. Lee Valley sells it. Oh, and free shipping too.

    56z7405s1.jpg
    Best regards,

    Ron

    You haven't really been lost until you've been lost at Mach 2!


Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •