Drawbore question

[Phil Mueller]

I plan to drawbore all the mortise and tenons on my workbench. My question is if I also use glue, I'm having anxiety over it setting up before I can pound in 4 pins per leg (2 for front rail, 2 for side rail.
Order wise, I'm planning to glue and clamp all four legs and then clamp diagonally for square. Once that is done will the glue be too set to drawbore...or am I over thinking this?

i have also considered using glue on the pins only, but I really don't want to risk this bench "loosening up"

Thanks

[ken hatch]

I plan to drawbore all the mortise and tenons on my workbench. My question is if I also use glue, I'm having anxiety over it setting up before I can pound in 4 pins per leg (2 for front rail, 2 for side rail.
Order wise, I'm planning to glue and clamp all four legs and then clamp diagonally for square. Once that is done will the glue be too set to drawbore...or am I over thinking this?

i have also considered using glue on the pins only, but I really don't want to risk this bench "loosening up"

Thanks

Phil,

The answer to the first question is: No, you do not need to use glue on a properly drawbored joint. Glue is kinda like wearing belts and suspenders at the same time. Now having said that, on some of my bench builds I have used both glue and drawbores on the stretchers. With drawboring the pace can be slow and there is no need to clamp. Do one joint, have a cup of tea, do another joint, scratch the shop dog's butt, and so on. No worry about the glue setting before you can set the pins. Joining the slab to the base is another story. You have at least four joints that must be set at the same time and if they are tight there may be some final fitting of a large and very heavy hunk of wood. I don't even think about glue for the base/slab joints. As I posted somewhere else today, I've a few bench builds over the years and there has never been a structural problem with any using drawbores without glue, a few design missteps but that was usually because I built to current fashion instead of simple.

ken

[Jim McGee]

If you are drawboring the parts of your work bench correctly, you don't have to use glue.

[Phil Stone]

Yeah, that's what I really enjoy about drawboring: no glue mess, no glue "rush". Also, you can (theoretically) take the joint apart should the need ever arise.

[paul cottingham]

If you offset the drawbore holes, there is not need for glue. If you just drill straight through all the pieces, well, glue the dickens out of everything. Oh, and if you offset the holes, use rived pegs, not store-bought dowels. Store-bought might (probably will) break.

[Phil Stone]

If you offset the drawbore holes, there is not need for glue. If you just drill straight through all the pieces, well, glue the dickens out of everything. Oh, and if you offset the holes, use rived pegs, not store-bought dowels. Store-bought might (probably will) break.

I've heard that about store-bought dowels, but I've successfully used white oak dowels, with pretty straight grain, out of the bin. No problems.

[Robert Engel]

No glue in joint or dowels = you can take the bench apart in the future.

I've heard of furniture 100+ yrs old with db'd tenons no glue at all still holding together fine.
I know there are timber frame barns 100X yrs old still sound.

Making your own dowels seems to be the best way, just make 'em big, like 1/2".

[paul cottingham]

I've heard that about store-bought dowels, but I've successfully used white oak dowels, with pretty straight grain, out of the bin. No problems.

Every store bought i drawbored with gave me grief. The nice thing about rived ones is you vpcan make em from scrap, and because you are following the garin, they will be stronger, and follow the offset better.

[Jim Koepke]

if you offset the holes, use rived pegs, not store-bought dowels. Store-bought might (probably will) break.

I've heard that about store-bought dowels, but I've successfully used white oak dowels, with pretty straight grain, out of the bin. No problems.

Every store bought i drawbored with gave me grief.

The species, material and quality of store bought dowels varies more than opinions about sharpening.

You pays your money and you takes your chances. Careful selection can improve the odds. Riving your own makes them a bit better.

You can do a touch of riving on a store bought...

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

Appreciate the input. Less anxiety for sure. Riving my own seems like a fun task, probably go that route.

[Michael Fross]

While I agree with the above, if you want to glue (I would probably glue it...why not (assuming you won't ever disassemble)) then just use a glue with a longer open time. Titebond Extend, veneering glues, epoxy, etc. I'd go with the Titebond Extend, it's what I use when I need the open time.

Michael

[David Dalzell]

I have draw bored joints both with and without glue. However when I have a complicated (many joints) glue-up to do then I use slow set epoxy. About 1/2 hour set time. So epoxy with draw boring eliminates the stress of short time before glue set.