Can a lathe cabinet be stable, on casters?

[Robert Marshall]

I was impressed by last month's weighted lathe-cabinet post:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...inet+for+lathe

I'm thinking about doing something like that, for my Jet 1236, and here's my question. I would like the cabinet to be rollable, but I'm not sure whether having it bearing on large casters would make it more susceptible to vibration, than bearing on the ends of 4"x4" posts. Assuming the casters can be locked, it would appear to me the only difference would be the amount of friction, leg-to-concrete, offered by either option.)

Anyone have an opinion? Thanks!

(I'm putting in a concrete apron in front of my workshop's garage door, so I can work outside in nice weather. The lathe is one of those tools that I would love to be able to roll outside, because it is such a mess-producer.)

[Roger Chandler]

If it were me wanting to use castors for mobility, I would make sure to use one with holes for 4 lag screws into the 4x4 verticles, not one that has a single center post that mounts in a drilled hole, and use a wide wheel version......that would give more load bearing surface on the concrete floor and be more stable than slim wheels.

Actually, a better idea is to use leveling castors, which will allow you to seat the cabinet on the floor when in position, and yet be movable when it needs to be.

[Brad Barnhart]

Mr. Marshall, I have just such a creation, Sir. I have 4 x 4's for support, but what I used was a shelving project I had built for a client, & couldn't get them to pay their bill. So, I put the shelves to another use. I've got a 14" x 40" HF lathe, & in order to get the most use from it, I needed it mobile. My shop is only 260 sq. Ft. I've got 6 casters bolted to the bottom of the platform. The four corners are locking casters. I've built a 4 x 4 frame on the bottom platform, built a level, straight platform on top of the 4 x 4's the width & length of my lathe. I've lag bolted the 4 x 4 's top & bottom. Used carriage bolts to secure the lathe to the top. I've used two 60 lb sand bags for ballast, & have no vibration at all.

[Don Bunce]

I built a tool cabinet that fits under the lathe, but not connected to it. Each end has a scissors jack that raises the lathe up to move it when necessary.

[Wayne Lovell]

Our club (East Texas Woodturners) has a Jet 1642 on a similar cabinet which is stored in a closet at the college where we meet about 150 feet from the room we use, I don't think that any of the demonstrators have ever had any problems with it.

[John Grace]

As a general rule I would suggest 'no', that it wouldn't be as stable. Think about a wheel as it touches a flat surface, you have a relatively small amount of surface area in contact. I'm sure it can be done in some contexts with the proper precautions but it just doesn't inherently seem like the best way.

[Robert Engel]

Also "no".

Better off just using a jack and a couple dollies.

Or the cabinet idea the one poster had.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

One of my club members hosts all of our classes at his shop. He's collected several Delta minis over the years. They're all mounted on fairly heavy plywood cabinets with locking swivel casters underneath. The cabinets are all used for wood storage - it gives them some weight.

even with the casters locked, there is always a bit of vibration with due to the swivel joint at the caster stem. They are fairly solid on the floor. If you start with an out of round blank, you'll know it. Keep the speed down, get it balanced, after that...it works just fine.

[Dale Gillaspy]

Another vote for a jack. Think along the lines of the moveable tool stands that Woodcraft (and Rockler, I think,) sell. They sit flat on the ground until you jack up the front with two levers, then you are able to wheel them around, then drop them down in place again. It is quick and easy, and leaves the tool pretty stable. I use one for my bandsaw and have had no problems other than occasionally leveling a foot depending on what part of the floor I set it down on.

[Roger Chandler]

Leveling castors take care of vibration as it allows the full weight of the lathe and cabinet to be seated on the floor, and when needed it can be mobile by moving the seating pad above the castor........win/win, but can be a bit pricey!

[Mark Greenbaum]

I built a tool cabinet that fits under the lathe, but not connected to it. Each end has a scissors jack that raises the lathe up to move it when necessary.

Now that's clever!!

[Thom Sturgill]

Rockler sells some casters that raise and lower called "Workbench Locking Casters" sold individually or in a four pack. I use one on my table saw, one on my bandsaw and did use on my router table until I mounted the router in the tablesaw wing. They only have a 100# rating but are probably good for several times that as long as you only use them while moving. I know my saw weighs more than 100#, but the load is shared with two fixed wheels.

Another option is the Lift, lock and Roll set made for the Jet 1642 and Powermatics. Its about $350 + shipping, so not cheap, but will handle the load. Like the Rockler item, the lathe sets on its own feet when not lifted to move. It could be lag bolted to a bench.

[David Walser]

In addition to stability, you should also be concerned about the ability to level your lathe at its new location. Many new turners complain that their tailstock is out of alignment with their headstock. Often the reason for this is NOT a manufacturing defect but that the lathe was not properly leveled. Unless the lathe bed is level (front to back and side to side), the lathe will twist, throwing off the alignment between headstock and tailstock.

Since most (all?) shop floors are not perfectly level, mounting a lathe on casters creates the possibility that it will need to be leveled in its new location. Even if the idea is just to move the lathe out of the way when it's not in use, unless you know you'll get the lathe back exactly to the original location, you'll want the ability to quickly and easily level the lathe.

[Michael Mills]

I don't know how heavy your lathe is (can you lift one end at the time)?
This is what I did for my TS.
Pic1 one shows it on the casters. I lift one end give a kick with my boot to flip the casters inside and sit it down.
Pic 2 shows the casters inside. I lift the end again and pull the cord to move the casters under the frame.
May or may not work for you.
The surface of the casters may be a consideration as to vibration but also how well the axle in the casters fit. The casters may wobble on the axle also.
My TS stays on the casters all the time except when I move it and drop it down to use it.

[Roger Chandler]

In addition to stability, you should also be concerned about the ability to level your lathe at its new location. Many new turners complain that their tailstock is out of alignment with their headstock. Often the reason for this is NOT a manufacturing defect but that the lathe was not properly leveled. Unless the lathe bed is level (front to back and side to side), the lathe will twist, throwing off the alignment between headstock and tailstock.

Since most (all?) shop floors are not perfectly level, mounting a lathe on casters creates the possibility that it will need to be leveled in its new location. Even if the idea is just to move the lathe out of the way when it's not in use, unless you know you'll get the lathe back exactly to the original location, you'll want the ability to quickly and easily level the lathe.

Very true David......thus my mentioning "leveling castors." Glad you brought out the reason for the bed being level as I neglected to mention that, but in my quick reply made an assumption that leveling castors would indicate that.......much appreciated!