I would use a 16" ring. That would give you almost 15" that it would support. Here is one I did based on Jeff Nicole's design for a 16" swing lathe. I believe you can search on here for detailed plans to build this one.
I would use a 16" ring. That would give you almost 15" that it would support. Here is one I did based on Jeff Nicole's design for a 16" swing lathe. I believe you can search on here for detailed plans to build this one.
Sparky Paessler
I use the oneway bowl steady as well...got it from Lee Valley.. http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...330,49238&ap=1 works great and as Charlie said you really only need support at the place you are cutting..
Good question Mike. I'll be using the steady rest for HFs and I have a setup with a laser.
Wood lathe steady rests come in all forms, spindle, bowl & large HF's, from string steady rests used by long thin goblet & trembleur turners to mega creations used for very large HF's.
I would suggest Google searches for "wood lathe steady rest" or for noted HF turners like Brian McEvoy, or the late Elmer Adams (who didn't use steadies on very large HF's) etc to get idea's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPSwy6wiDvI & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GslfEkuxpcY check out the 19" mark.
Many of the vibration issues are actually caused by inadequate mounting of the work piece. Most turners of very large bowls or HF's prefer face plates with coach screws / lag screws to mount the blanks.
I rather like steadys to be quite robust like the Vermec "Three Point Steady" however your lathe, hollowing system, tools & project will have its own unique set of design issues that will dictate what is a practical steady rest. Most commercial units are very well engineered - for a reason - product liability.
Last edited by Geoff Whaling; 10-13-2015 at 4:18 PM.
Jeramie
that is a product called 80/20. I got mine at a scrap sale at work but you can buy it online. the U shaped piece of aluminum I used for the base is from McMaster-Carr. for more info and pictures see my post on it
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-comming-along
Sparky Paessler
I built to the same plans for the Robust AB with a 26" ring. The plans that Jim Combs has put together based on the Nichols design (search on this forum) are easy to follow, require no more than an angle grinder and cutoff wheel and rudimentary welding skils.
I can attest to the last, not having welded since I was in college over 40 years ago, I made it through easily. Built mine with 3 wheels, all angled 7 degrees from the vertical to clear a laser.
IMG_0237.JPGIMG_0240.JPG
Here are the plans:
http://www.tnvalleywoodclub.org/Plan...20by%20JDC.pdf
Thanks for the link!
Jeff Nicols has plans on his site WoodenNicol. I bought one of his before he stopped making them. He originally used fixed mounts like Sparky's and then started offering moveable wheel mounts. Mine has four fixed mounts and one moveable. I can place it where ever needed to avoid collision with the laser arm. Before he stopped making them, I believe he went to all moveable mounts. It is solid as a rock, however I agree with Geoff about using faceplates for deep hollowing.
Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).