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Thread: finishing techniques/choices before engraving

  1. #1

    finishing techniques/choices before engraving

    Hi guys,

    I'm mostly going to be producing art on Cherry and Maple frames, and I've found my results to be quite good when I apply a few coats of finish before etching. It allows me to wipe off that scorch very easily with a slightly damp rag, and the pieces get that extra visual pop. Where I'm struggling right now is choosing a cost and time effective solution. I was wondering what some of you more experienced guys might recommend.

    So far I've tried:

    -A very basic water based finish (Varathane Clear Sealant) that I roll on with a spongy roller. It's a 1 day job and I get away with 2 coats on the front, 1 everywhere else.

    -A high end product like Livos, which is oil based. It takes a ton of time between coats, is flammable and smells bad, so I don't plan on sticking to this. It's also brutally expensive.

    -Mineral Oil, which is dirt cheap and doesn't smell like anything. I was quite excited about this one, and then read that it never really sets, it just stays liquid.


    I was on the verge of deciding to try something like Tung (minus the solvent part), when I figured maybe opening up this discussion here might be more productive. I think I'll stay away from walnut oil for allergy reasons (customers). I also decided to open this in this section because I do think it's very much etching specific. Thanks in advance everyone

  2. #2
    I like to wipe a thick coat of 50/50 lacquer/thinner, then wipe off the excess.
    I leave it outside for a few hours to dry (cause the wife doesn't like the smell )
    Epilog Helix 60w
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  3. #3
    I haven't tried this for engraving purposes, but I have painted oxidized boats with it!



    --it's basically just linseed oil, don't know what else is in it. Should only need one coat, and maybe a day to dry.

    Last time I bought it, it was around $8 a quart. Or just try plain old boiled linseed oil.
    (I once coated some aging stained wood slats on my house with plain linseed oil, and it lasted for years)

    no joking on painting the boats! (applied with a red shop rag, one coat, took about 3/4 of a can)
    I would think it should work on a piece of wood!

    b4pen.jpgaftpen.jpgafterpen3.jpg
    Last edited by Kev Williams; 09-28-2015 at 11:46 AM.
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  4. #4
    I use a fast dry water based polyurethane brush or roll it on 15 mins between coats and engrave an hour later.
    If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
    Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
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  5. #5
    I wouldn't touch the wipe on oils. Too long of a drying time and not a good finish look as far as I'm concerned. Try spray on polyurethane or brush on but fairly thin.

    I also use clear acrylic spray.

    I would buy the frames from JDS already finished.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Kemp View Post
    I use a fast dry water based polyurethane brush or roll it on 15 mins between coats and engrave an hour later.
    That sounds interesting, would you happen to know the brand you use?

    Thanks for all the advice everyone.

  7. #7
    We use spray on clear lacquer, Mohawk brand. Their products are really good. We specifically use the satin. We coat raw wood with a couple of coats, it dries between coats in minutes. Normally let it dry for an hour or so and then off to engraving with no issues.

    I really, really like their products. They flatten out great. It's all rattle can stuff, we get it from Woodcraft.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
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  8. #8
    I use mini wax brand water based poly

    Quote Originally Posted by Raphael Weil View Post
    That sounds interesting, would you happen to know the brand you use?

    Thanks for all the advice everyone.
    If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
    Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
    Lasercut 5.3
    CorelDraw X5

    10" Miter Saw with slide
    10" Table Saw
    8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
    Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander


  9. #9
    Yea I use to use rattle can clear, but their expensive for the amount of coverage you get, a 16$ quart of poly equals a gazillion 3$ rattle cans
    I should mention I usually give a quick buff with real fine sand paper between coats.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    We use spray on clear lacquer, Mohawk brand. Their products are really good. We specifically use the satin. We coat raw wood with a couple of coats, it dries between coats in minutes. Normally let it dry for an hour or so and then off to engraving with no issues.

    I really, really like their products. They flatten out great. It's all rattle can stuff, we get it from Woodcraft.
    If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
    Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
    Lasercut 5.3
    CorelDraw X5

    10" Miter Saw with slide
    10" Table Saw
    8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
    Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander


  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Kemp View Post
    I use mini wax brand water based poly
    Just found it, that looks veeeery interesting. The fast drying is particularly interesting. The water-based poly I used was just way too slow. And yes sanding between coats is indeed a valuable step. At the shop I work at they taught the value of putting one coat on the backs too. Looks like a must to avoid any sort of cupping long term.

  11. #11
    I've never been able to get anything but orange peel finishes from the min-wax versions of it all. That's why we went to the Mohawk products.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    I've never been able to get anything but orange peel finishes from the min-wax versions of it all. That's why we went to the Mohawk products.
    I prefer Mohawk too.

  13. #13
    I like Mohawk as well but it is not convenient for me to buy.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  14. #14
    I have been using a gunstock finish lately, called Tru-Oil. It is a wipe-on, wipe-off - so no brush marks, dust sticking or dripping, plus it dries pretty fast (15 min. to touch). I like to leave it overnight and sand super smooth with 600 grit sponge and finish with furniture polish. Sounds like a lot of work, but really, it's not because you just wipe each stage lightly. I prep wood in batches and then have it ready when I want to do one or ten pieces. The gunstock finish is very hard and it will buff to high shine if you want it but stay matt if you want it there too. I like the versatility and durability because I need my pieces to be waterproof and they will be handled a lot so a smooth finish is critical.

    cheers, dee
    Epilog Mini 18/25w & 35w, Mac and Vaio, Corel x3, typical art toys, airbrush... I'm a Laserhead, my husband is a Neanderthal - go figure

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  15. #15
    I'm also contemplating 1 coat of Shellack followed by 1 coat of minwax. Saw a video of that on youtube, looks great. Shellack dries so crazy fast. Just have to see if the version I got is waxed or unwaxed. I'll report back with the results and how it engraved

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