Any feedback on this outdoor table design?

[Dennis Aspö]

I started designing a table in sketchup today, it's supposed to be an outdoors table.



Cross leg design and a 45 degree trestle instead of one that goes straight between both legs.




I first designed it without the two beams that run along the middle of the underside and was thinking I'd just use a tenon and mortise to anchor the trestles to the top, but I started wondering if the design was weak in the middle so I added to the two center beams to the bottom. They are attached with dowels. The leg assemblies and table top are supposed to be able to be disassembled.



The table top will just rest on the legs without fastening, unless perhaps I make some dowels I can drive through and then remove for disassembly.



Close up of the table top bread board and also the batten is a hidden sliding dovetail batten, which will help keep the boards aligned.



The cross legs will be 4x4 laminated from thinner pieces to prevent them from twisting.

I was planning to laminate the top because I want one solid top, but given that it will be an outdoors table, should I forego that idea? What alternatives are there if I want the top as one solid piece and not a bunch of loose boards? Mechancal fasteners?

I took inspiration for this table from a swedish woodworking firm making similar tables, though they are indoor tables:
http://grunna.se/kryssbord/

Not in english but I guess you can watch the pictures if you wish.

[James Tibbetts]

I would think the breadboards and sliding dovetails would be enough allowance for movement to able able to laminate the top.
Very sturdy design. I wouldn't want to have to move it after assembly!

[Dennis Aspö]

My issue with lamination was mostly if it was good practice to use glue, even water resistant glue, in outdoor applications. I would prefer it though.

[James Tibbetts]

You might ask that question in the boat building forum. They should know what will work. TBIII is supposed to be waterproof.

[Jamie Buxton]

The usual wisdom about outdoor table tops is to leave gaps between the boards. Water drains through the gaps instead of pooling on the top. That is, you get exposure to water mostly when it is actually raining, not for days afterward.

A related question is what wood species to use. Some are much better at resisting water than others. For instance, teak is very good. However, it is very expensive. White oak is pretty good, and is more affordable. Are there Finnish species that are known for weather resistance?

[Dennis Aspö]

I am building this of 2x8 construction lumber that I already have. It's all we got up here that's good for outdoors use. Arctic birch is our oak for furniture making, but it's worthless as outdoors furniture. The other species such as rowan, aspen and black alder are not good for outdoors use either. Alder and aspen tends to be used in saunas which is temporarily steamy but otherwise dry, but as outdoors furniture it doesn't hold up.

Since we build houses from it I think it will be OK. It's also what any locally made outdoors furniture would be made of here, pine or spruce. Spruce in my case.

Oiling the table top and painting the legs is my plan. I am also wondering if I can wax the table top to make it prettier and increase water resistance.

[Yonak Hawkins]

I am building this of 2x8 construction lumber that I already have. It's all we got up here that's good for outdoors use.

This makes this advice :

...leave gaps between the boards. Water drains through the gaps instead of pooling on the top.

all the more apropos. I'm an advocate of orienting the boards "bark side down" so, whey they get wet and dry out, they tend to crown instead of cup. I realize there is some disagreement on this, however.

[Dennis Aspö]

If I where to build it with gaps, could I use glue anywhere? Like on the center of the bread board? I do plan to glue up the cross legs tightly, also read somewhere that glue in a joint helps keep water out of it.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Dennis, if there are gaps between the boards of the top you could glue all the way across the breadboard end .. really, anywhere as far as I can tell from your drawing. Be sure to use a good outdoor glue.