the shading behind the teeth appears to be standard on new blades. Look at the expanded view of this forrest blade advertised on Amazon.
the shading behind the teeth appears to be standard on new blades. Look at the expanded view of this forrest blade advertised on Amazon.
Brian
"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher
My best guess is that the blade is probably not used (there's little or nothing by way of the usual circular marking on the disc, or where the arbour tightened up on it), but that judging by the scratching and slightly dull look that it could be old stock - or have been stored by somebody for a while in a less than static environment. It should be pretty evident from a close look at the cutting surfaces on the teeth whether it's been used or not.
This here is the same blade new on Amazon, it's relatively bright and unmarked in comparison: http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW1020.../dp/B007ENX1NO
Thanks for all the input, talked to Forrest yesterday and providing them with blade serial number, it has not been re-sharpened by them. The Back grind is normal he said on this thin kerf for ripping. Here is a 48 tooth Forrest blade I found at Woodcraft... Look at the photo it has scratches too.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/150268/Forrest-Woodworker-II-Saw-Blade-10-x-48-Tooth.aspx
I have some 3" red oak I didn't want to use my 40T Woodworker II on.
That's a new old stock blade. If it had been used/resharpened the lettering on the side of the blade would be blurred or becoming faint in some areas. I'm guessing it acquired the scratches from being in somebody's draw with stuff piled on top. I've had the good fortune of acquiring a couple at estate sales in the same condition.
As a side note, seeing that you are in Harrison I take my blades to American Sharpening in Rogers when dull. My 40 tooth WW-II's come back cutting better than new.
Larry
Looks like its not used that I can tell. If it had those scratches would be running around the blade in concentric circles. Looks like it was just sitting around. I also did not notice any marks at the arbor where an arbor nut would be. In the end if she cuts good is good. If you got a great price then you win! I sold two thin kerf forrests when I got my Sawstop because they can't use them. sold two for a hundred bucks I got enought to get a new reg blade and some guy got two blades and a blade stiffener for a good deal it was a win/win.
They do cut like butter through 12/4, just not that fine finish with the higher tooth count,, but that don't matter.
thanks Larry, I have been looking for a sharping service.
Forrest is hard to beat for sharpening if you have to send them off rather than have a good local service.
I'm having trouble to where you bought this blade "off the auction site". That means someone else is claiming it to be new????? Maybe new never used, but got tossed around in someone's shop for a few years?
I buy my Forrest blades from Silver Mills.
Ok, I'm staring at the OP's picture, and the relief behind the teeth and some of the actual teeth are black. Not shadowed and dull grey like the pics of a new forest blade on line, where the light plays tricks in the photo...these teeth are black. I have seen plenty of black saw teeth and gullets, but not on new blades ever...unless the blades were all black. So what is the explanation for the relief on the back of every tooth and some of the teeth themselves being black like tar? Did you send that photo to Forrest? Do the teeth appear to be razor sharp, like scary sharp?
"A good miter set up is like yoga pants: it makes everyone's butts look good." Prashun Patel
No opinion on the newness of this blade, but I recently got one to rip about a quarter mile of small cherry moldings for a built up baseboard. Nice blade! Clean cut, no burn spots, almost no resistance pushing wood through it, and frequently allowed me to get an extra piece of molding out of a board because of the thin kerf. Enjoy!