clean log ends

[Todd Burch]

Of the 9 longs I have collected so far, two large logs (36" and 40" diameter) have a significant "V" cut in them where they were felled, and a third log (storm blow over) still has a portion of the stump and root rot cluster all attached.

I know the one with the root stuff on it I need to saw off - no big deal there. But, as a general question, if others are cutting logs that you will be sawing, how particular are you on how smooth the ends of the log are?

For instance, the two with the side "V" cuts have a significant amount of tear out where the tree was hinged as it fell. Bits protruding and bits missing from the cavity of the hinge. You really can't end seal this area very effectively. Do you cut it off smooth (which, in both my cases, we're talking a good foot of length into a 7' log, so that's a big percentage to waste just to get a smooth end), or just seal what you can?

Todd

[Tom Hogard]

Todd,

This is just personal preference but I would square off the end. You may think you are losing 15% of the log (1' of 7') but because of the taper, it is probably more like 5%. If you mill them as is, you'll have boards ranging from 6' to 7'. If you set up your air drying stack to adequately support the shortest boards (6'), you'll leave 6-12" hanging over the end, unsupported, which can increase warp and extend end checking. The torn fibers are an open door to insects and decay and, as you commented, it'll be much easier to apply any end-coating you use.

[Al Weber]

Square them off just to make sure they get sealed properly to prevent checking. As said above, the loss is minimal and if you can't seal them properly, you will likely lose more than what you remove to cracking.