Anchorseal, or other end sealant

[Todd Burch]

I've used anchorseal before. I bought 5 gallons of green from Baileys. I think I only used 1/2 of it, then I stored it, then the bottom of the pail cracked, and I threw it out after 10+ years.

I'll probably get another 5 gallons soon. Do you use a brush to apply it? How do you store your brush? From what I can remember, it seems it would be too stiff to spray via a pump sprayer, especially in cold weather.

If you don't cover your log ends when the tree is felled, and you go a few weeks without using it, do you just forego it's use at that point?

Do you use multiple colors for different flavors of wood?

What percent of your logs do you use it on?

Thanks, Todd

[Danny Hamsley]

I use the original formula from the manufacturer, UC Coatings. I use it on all hardwoods as soon as possible after felling. After a couple of weeks without sealing, it may only be of marginal value. I do not use on pine or cedar as they generally do not split. Commercial pine mills do not use it. I use the clear drying formulation because I want to be able to see the growth rings when sawing so that I can center the pith and understand the ring orientation in the boards that I am sawing.

[George Bokros]

90 degrees is a little hot in my opinion to apply finish. It will tend to dry very quickly not allowing the finish to flow out hence the brush marks and bubbles. One trip to help with bubbles is to "tip off" the varnish when applying.

[Danny Hamsley]

I apply with a large paint brush. I put the anchorseal in a smaller bucket that has a lid when applying. When I finish, I just leave the brush in the small application bucket with the anchorseal. The brush never gets dried out and stiff this way.

[Tim Offutt]

I use the standard UC Coatings material and usually apply it with a six inch roller as soon as possible after felling.

I have a friend who tints it with dye, certain colors for certain woods. I'm color blind so it doesn't interest me.

[Al Weber]

I use the original stuff and the largest foam brush I have at hand. I apply it in a heavy coat on hardwoods. I use it anytime I have a log for future milling. I've applied it a few days after the fact but usually by that time I have some cracking anyway so I'm already too late although I think it does slow the rate of drying even if applied late.

[Cody Colston]

I use the original formula applied with a 4" paint brush. I buy the AS in 2-gallon buckets and it lasts a long time as I only saw lumber for my own use.

Todd, I see you are now in Chappel Hill instead of Katy. Good move, IMHO.

[Todd Burch]

Yes, Cody, it's much better! Closer to you too!

[Frank Drew]

I used Green Wood Sealer that I bought by the gallon from that woodturning supply company in Utah; it might be identical to Anchorseal. I applied it with an inexpensive bristle brush to unchecked endgrain; any checking and I'd cut off the affected portion then seal. I love the stuff and think it makes a big difference.

[Ed McEowen]

I have used black driveway sealer that's sold in 5 gallon buckets for about $20 at the big box store. It seems to work to seal log ends. The ingredient list says it has sand in it, so you might see occasional sparks when entering the log, but I haven't noticed significantly reduced band life. So there, for what it's worth . . . (maybe about $80).

[Danny Hamsley]

I have used the mobile home aluminum roofing paint. Called Kool seal at Lowes. It seals, but you sacrifice the brush, your shirt, your pants, and your shoes. Awful stuff to mix and apply. Just not worth it. I am an anchorseal guy. Sometimes perfect application and simple elegance takes the cake. Maybe this is because as I am getting older and some things are just not worth the fight.

[Morey St. Denis]

Specifically regarding "How do you store your brush?"... I fold & wrap mine in "Saran" or similar thin plastic food wrap while squeezing out much of the air space, perhaps finishing with a rubber band or some masking tape tight around the bristle retainer. The vapor pressure of soluble wax emulsion is low enough that it will typically last several weeks in good enough condition to re-wet it and work the end against some scrap material and it quickly becomes ready for further reuse.

[Kevin Jenness]

I have found that a cheap bristle brush left on top of the gallon can of anchorseal will soften up with reuse and work fine for months on end.

[Cody Colston]

I have found that a cheap bristle brush left on top of the gallon can of anchorseal will soften up with reuse and work fine for months on end.

Me, too. I use the 4" chip brushes from HD and toss them when they become too stiff.

[Dan Hintz]

I think my go-to brush is about 2" wide. For large areas, I pour directly from a large Dixie cup (filled from the bucket), then spread with the brush. Come cleanup time, I gently squeeze all excess out of the brush, then dip it in hot water for a few minutes, then run hot water over it. It will be a bit stiff after it dries, but upon the first dip back into the AS and the first brush, it's back to normal. I store the brush in the plastic folder it came in.