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Thread: First (and hopefully last) Cabinet Table Saw Purchase - Advice needed use

  1. #31
    Thanks again for all the input. I've put off the decision for a while and kept an eye out for used saws on craigslist.

    Recently, I saw this ad for a 12" Powermatic. It fits all my specs, heavy, powerful, 1phase power, etc.

    http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb...150828480.html

    Anyone have any feedback? I know Powermatic's quality has (allegedly) fluctuated over time, and I was wondering if anyone had any input or experience with this model of saw.

    Additionally, any suggestions on what I should look for or what questions I should ask when inspecting the saw would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    John

  2. #32
    I recently purchased a 3Hp Sawstop pcs. It's a great saw, although I do a lot of work with 8 or 10/4 cherry and maple. I came from using a 5 Hp unisaw, and I have to say the unisaw didn't bog down like my sawstop will. I should have bought the 5Hp ICS. In all honesty, in the future I'll probably sell mine and get the ICS. I'm going to get a 20 tooth ripping blade and see if that helps much, I suspect it will.
    Steve

  3. #33
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Akerblom View Post
    Thanks again for all the input. I've put off the decision for a while and kept an eye out for used saws on craigslist.

    Recently, I saw this ad for a 12" Powermatic. It fits all my specs, heavy, powerful, 1phase power, etc.

    http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb...150828480.html

    Anyone have any feedback? I know Powermatic's quality has (allegedly) fluctuated over time, and I was wondering if anyone had any input or experience with this model of saw.

    Additionally, any suggestions on what I should look for or what questions I should ask when inspecting the saw would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    John
    I'd be on top of that. Made in the USA - McMinnville, TN. From the sweet spot of production. I think that is a solid saw at a fair price.

    You want to fire it up, of course, run the height limit-to-limit, run the tilt limit-to limit [check the angles], see how the fence moves - lock and stability. The one main issue is always runout - if you have a way to measure that. If that is all good, tee it up.

    The thing is, though - often these appear and then are gone in a flash, so you should get there fast, with folding money in your hand................

    EDIT: Appears to be a 1962 Model 71.........don't come any more solid than that, if it is in good shape. 5 HP and 12" blade.........a serious horse.........

    Vintage Machinery S/N database: http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Pow...alNumbers.ashx

    If it was on the "proper" coast, I'd be driving right now............and I don't even need a TS.
    Last edited by Kent A Bathurst; 08-18-2015 at 11:52 PM.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  4. #34
    Keep in mind 12" blades are considerably more expensive.
    How thick of material are you cutting, anyway?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    The top has obviously had some pretty heavy grinding/sanding done to remove rust. Take a straight edge along to check for dips or other areas where the PO may have gotten a little enthusiastic with the sander.

  6. #36
    I saw your size of shop since my last point and will add another thought. I think people with limited space and who may have to move should seriously consider a table saw with less rip capacity (i.e. not 52 inches or more) and a track saw. A track saw will not do everything that a table saw will but it will cut sheet goods safely and with less space required than you can do on a table saw. Even on solid wood, I would rather move my tracksaw through the wood than wrestle a heavy board through the table saw. I took my extension rails off since I got my track saw. It didn't save me money but it saved space. Typically you could probably save enough on a smaller capacity saw to pay for the tracksaw (at least one other than a Festool).

  7. #37
    I have a Hammer slider and a track saw (a eurekazone EZ-smart with a festool saw and router, weird combo but it works great) and feel the advantages of a slider, especially for small work, is so great I could never again be satisfied with any other type saw. Just an entirely different way of working.
    Yes they can be heavy but in the title of your post is 'hopefully the last'.
    Standing next to not behind the saw, work clamped to a perfectly aligned rolling table with a pair of KREG Automaxx bench clamps that run in the t-slots, it just fixes so many issues and allows you to quickly make cuts you would never consider with a normal saw.
    So many people are advising this that you should at least try one out before eliminating them.

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