First (and hopefully last) Cabinet Table Saw Purchase - Advice needed use

[Hoang N Nguyen]

If space isn't an issue for you, I'd go with the 52" fence. You never know when you need to rip 37" sheet goods on the table saw when your saw max out at 36"...... Ask me how I know.

[Mike Henderson]

I have the 3HP Pro Sawstop and I've never wished for more. Ask yourself how much your fingers are worth.

The only viable alternative to a SS is a slider.

Mike

[scott spencer]

At that price level, the odds are heavily in your favor of getting a strong performing saw. A saw that won't cause amputation in the event of an accident is a pretty significant advantage in my book.

[Kent A Bathurst]

. I use a lot of thick, dense lumber and could make use of the 12" blade.

This sentence is the leverage point, IMO.

If you need the cutting capacity of a 12" blade, then your decision seems to be a simple one.

If you don't need the 12" capacity, but do need the HP for the dense woods, then you have options.

Your money - make your choice - either way you will be done buying table saws.

FWIW - and probably not worth much - - twice in the past I have purchased their 7.5 HP saws [but ordered them as 480v, which made them 10 hp]. For industrial use, of course. They absolutely did the job............

Get a phase converter, and the 3 ph 220v 7.5 HP 12" saw.......Katie bar the door.

[johnny means]

Personally, anything that requires more than 3" of cutting height doesn't get cut on a cabinet saw.

[John Lankers]

John, I'll through you a curve ball, you said you value your fingers, that gives you 2 options: SawStop and Slider - the choice is yours, I went for the slider.

[Frank Martin]

I have the 3HP Pro Sawstop and I've never wished for more. Ask yourself how much your fingers are worth.

The only viable alternative to a SS is a slider.

Mike

This reflects my thoughts exactly. In my case I went with a slider as part of a combo machine.

[John Akerblom]

I would love a slider, but they are super expensive and weigh so much I'd worry about ever moving them. I saw a craigslist ad for a bare bones Laguna tss for relatively cheap, but even the accessories cost a fortune. And I wouldn't want the "baby" model.

I am am renting the house I'm at, the garage has a super cracked and uneven floor (not much repositioning and wheeling around of large tools will be done) and I have to be able to fit everything in my two car garage shop and then move it five years from now.

my other question about the Sawstop is: What other materials will cause the brake to engage? I laminate speargun blanks with carbon fiber and fiberglass, could either of those set off the brake/safety mechanism.

Thanks again for for all the advice. It's great to be able to do this much research before spending this much money.

[Rick Lizek]

A cabinet saw is only half a saw. Get a slider for a full saw.
http://grizzly23-px.rtrk.ca/products...de-Arbor/G0700

[Jeff Gleason]

This is one of the biggest decisions you'll make for your shop and I'd like to throw in my 2 cents here. 8 years ago I was in the same position and after researching as much as I could, I came to the conclusion that SS was the best option for me. Safety pulled me in to look closer, then quality concerns were no longer an issue. This is by far my best purchase. I also bought two big ticket items from Grizzly - tempted by the price point. A cyclone dust collector and their planer/jointer combo. These both were by far the worst purchases I made. The combo factory error made the jointer useless and the DC cleaner brush pull cables won't stay on pulley, which requires a great deal of hassle to dissect the filter etc… only to have the cable go off track again. I know this is only anecdotal info but I'd never buy Grizzle again. Best wishes to you on your decision!

[Earl Rumans]

I don't think you have researched slider saws sufficiently. Here is a Hammer K3 in your price range and it is a far superior saw, compared to what you are looking at. http://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US...ner-31x48.html

[Rod Sheridan]

This reflects my thoughts exactly. In my case I went with a slider as part of a combo machine.

Exactly, that's what I did as well.

It also takes a 12 inch blade....................Regards, Rod.

[John Akerblom]

Yeah, those Hammers are pretty nice. Looked into them today. I don't cut much in terms of sheet goods though, nor do I crosscut much except for a few end-grain cutting boards here or there. I'd mostly be using the sliding table to rip and edge live edge lumber, which means I'd need the long table, which drives the price even higher. At the end of the day, I just don't think I need it.

Might just end up buying a $1,400 Grizzly 1023, then use the extra $2,000 to get a bandsaw or proper cyclone dust collection system.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Might just end up buying a $1,400 Grizzly 1023, then use the extra $2,000 to get a bandsaw or proper cyclone dust collection system.

Hear, hear.

[Rick Moyer]

Might just end up buying a $1,400 Grizzly 1023, then use the extra $2,000 to get a bandsaw or proper cyclone dust collection system.

There, there. (I didn't want to OBVIOUSLY agree with Kent. Dangerous)